If you’d asked me to guess the second most-expensive city in France after Paris, I would have predicted it was a luxurious town on the French Riviera, where the sun shines all year on the waterfront boutiques. I would never have guessed that it was actually Aix-en-Provence, a city of fewer than 200,000 residents that was barely on the radar of your average foreign tourist. As I planned my own trip to Provence I started to wonder, could there be enough things to do in Aix-en-Provence to make a trip there worthwhile?
Fortunately, it turned out that there were more than enough things to do in Aix-en-Provence to keep me occupied for my four-day visit. The city’s historic wealth created unique opportunities for art and architecture, which are celebrated at every turn in the historic center. Residents here can afford to live a more leisurely lifestyle, so café culture, street markets and the arts are all part of daily life. As a bonus, due to its small size and compact city center, Aix-en-Provence can be explored entirely on foot, making it perfect for a one- or two-day visit.
One thing to note about Aix-en-Provence is that most of the hotels are upscale properties catering to luxury travelers. I’ve rounded up a list of the best hotels in Aix-en-Provence, including several affordable family-run hotels, B&Bs and vacation rentals. If you’re on a budget, book an affordable hotel in Aix as soon as you know your travel dates, as they fill up early!
Keep reading to find out my favorite things to do in Aix-en-Provence, my tips for visiting the city’s attractions, and my recommendations for what you absolutely shouldn’t miss if you only have one or two days in Aix-en-Provence.
Fondation Vasarely
My favorite thing to do in Aix-en-Provence was my visit to the Fondation Vasarely, a purpose-built museum and gallery designed to house and showcase the collection of Victor Vasarely.
The foundation is located a short bus ride from the historic city center, in an eye-catching building that celebrates the artist’s role in founding the Op Art movement.
I recommend starting your visit on the upper floor, where Vasarely himself designed unique machines to display a rotating collection of his prints, sketches and other small works.
From there, head down to the galleries on the main floor, where 42 huge paintings (they’re each more than eight meters tall!) are on display in hexagonal rooms. The paintings were designed by Vasarely specifically for this space, and they’re so breathtaking that I have chosen not to share a photo here – you have to see them for yourself!
Cézanne’s Studio / Atelier Cézanne
Unfortunately, the most famous thing to do in Aix-en-Provence also turned out to be my least favorite. My visit to Paul Cézanne’s studio was a massive disappointment, and based on other reviews I’ve read online I am not the only person who had a negative experience.
Paul Cézanne was born in Aix-en-Provence, and he spent his early and later years in the city. In 1901 he bought a farmhouse in the hills just outside the center of Aix, and he converted the top floor of one of the buildings into his studio. He painted there for about five years, until his death in 1906.
Today, that studio has been turned into a small museum about Cézanne, with the upper level supposedly preserved just as the artist had left it (the truth of that is up for debate). There is also a ramshackle “garden” (I use the term loosely) and a small shed showing a movie about Cézanne.
Perhaps it’s my fault for not checking the website, but during my visit to Aix-en-Provence I did trek up the hill to Cézanne’s Atelier in the mid-afternoon heat, only to discover they were already sold out of tickets for the day. The staff were quite rude (I got the impression this happens many times a day) and scolded me for not checking the website or asking at tourist information… except I actually only came because the staff at the tourist information office had recommended it to me, and none of them had mentioned that a reservation was required!
If you’re dead-set on visiting the museum then you can book your entry window online through their official site… but I really wonder if it’s worth paying €6.50 (plus another €3 for the audio guide) to see something that one eloquent Google review describes as “the biggest disappointment since Courbet, Manet, and Pissarro were rejected from the Paris Salon in 1863.”
(If you do decide to visit, you’d may as well walk ten minute further up the hill to the Terrain des Peintres, or Field of Painters, a natural park area with beautiful views and information about the local flora that inspired so many Impressionists.)
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Follow in the Footsteps of Paul Cézanne
If you’ve come to Aix-en-Provence to learn more about Paul Cézanne, then you’ll definitely want to follow in the artist’s footsteps on a two-kilometer self-guided walking tour of the most important Paul Cézanne locations in Aix. The route is marked by bronze “C” plaques on the sidewalk, but it’s a lot easier to download a digital guide to the walking route here.
The self-guided tour starts just across the street from the Tourist Information office, at a 2006 bronze sculpture of Cézanne. From there you’ll visit the schools he attended (and where he befriended Emile Zola), the homes of his various family members, the shops and restaurants that he frequented and, eventually, the apartment where he passed away.
(In case you missed it, the nearby towns of both Saint-Remy-de-Provence and Arles offer similar walking routes dedicated to Vincent Van Gogh.)
Shop for Calissons in Aix-en-Provence
Embarrassingly, I ate all my calissons before I thought to photograph them (they’re that delicious!) but I did remember to save the box!
Calissons are the most famous sweet from Aix-en-Provence, and you absolutely must buy a box (or two, or three!) when you’re visiting. They are made by blending candied fruit and ground almonds into a paste, and then spreading a thin layer of royal icing on top. The most popular fruit flavors are melon (my favorite!), orange and lemon, but at sweet shops around Aix you may be able to find other flavors as well.
If you’re a fan of pistachio cream, you’ll also want to take home a jar of creme de calisson. Here, the same calisson ingredients are blended with additional sugar syrup and water to make a creamy paste (along the lines of Nutella) that you can spread on a piece of fresh bread or even stir into your morning tea.
Tours of Aix-en-Provence
During my stay in Aix-en-Provence I took a two-hour walking tour of the historic city center. With the help of an English-speaking guide I got to know the city’s history, its relationship to other cities and towns in Provence, and what sights were worth visiting (such as the famous facade of the Commercial Court building, shown above). I definitely recommend that you take a guided tour during your stay in Aix-en-Provence:
- Self-Guided Audio Tour & Scavenger Hunt in Aix-en-Provence – If you’re an independent traveler, or traveling to Aix-en-Provence with children, this self-guided walking tour is the perfect budget-friendly city guide. It’s a digital scavenger hunt that you use right on your smartphone, and as you follow the clues you’ll be guided to Aix’s most noteworthy spots.
- Aix-en-Provence Food & Wine Tour – I’m obsessed with food tours, and I think this is the best food tour in Aix-en-Provence. You’ll visit the famous food market (see below) and learn about the local, seasonal products being sold. Then you’ll venture into the old town to check out the different boutiques selling regional specialties. And did I mention there’s wine?
- Private Old Town Tour of Aix-en-Provence – If you’re particularly interested in Aix-en-Provence (perhaps you’re considering a move or have family connections to the region) this private tour can accommodate up to five travelers. It starts with hotel pick-up and then takes you a two-hour walking tour led by an expert guide.
- Group Tours of Aix-en-Provence Through the Tourist Information Office – The Tourist Information Office in Aix-en-Provence offers daily walking tours around several different themes, but they are mostly in French. The price is usually about €10 per person. You can check their site to see if they have any English walking tours available during your visit (the flag icon tells you the language).
Stroll Along Cours Mirabeau
The first thing most visitors do in Aix-en-Provence is stroll down the city’s famous Cours Mirabeau, which runs east to west and separates the historic center from the Quartier Mazarin.
The street is lined with cafes and shops, its intersections are dotted with fountains, and the city frequently closes the street to vehicle traffic, creating one of France’s most elegant pedestrian throughfares.
At the east end of Cours Mirabeau, don’t miss the Passage Agard, a hidden pedestrian alleyway that connects the street to the Palace of Justice.
Midway down the street, you’ll find my favorite fountain in Aix: La Fontaine d’Eau Chaude. It’s a huge, mossy rock that has been plopped right in the middle of the street, on top of a thermal spring. The water running over the rock is naturally 18° Celsius.
At the west end of the street you’ll find another large fountain topped with three marble statues, a modern shopping center and the Tourist Information Office, where you can pick up a city map or book a guided walking tour.
On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday Cours Mirabeau becomes a major regional market. You’ll find vendors selling clothing, arts and crafts, and local food items. Bring cash and your own reusable shopping bag in case you can’t resist temptation!
Wander Through Aix’s Historic Center
To the French, Aix-en-Provence has a kind of understated elegance that makes it very attractive. One of the best things to do in Aix-en-Provence is simply to wander through the historic city center and take in the city’s charm for yourself.
Some people say the most beautiful spot in Aix-en-Provence is Place de l’Albertas, where four Baroque and Rococo apartment blocks line a cobblestone square and look down over a stone fountain.
Others prefer the more spacious Place de Hotel de Ville, where a sixteenth-century belfry and astronomical clock towers over the Italian-style town hall.
Personally, I thought the mysterious Place de l’Archevêché was a hidden gem. Cafe tables and chairs hide an ancient stone fountain (I believe the inscription said it was built in 1618), and wrought-iron gates lead to a courtyard that time seems to have forgotten.
Museums of Aix-en-Provence
There are several museums in Aix-en-Provence that you may with to visit while you’re visiting. Most are located in well-preserved heritage buildings in the center of Aix, which means that often the surroundings are just as enchanting as the exhibits!
If you plan to visit three museums in two days or four museums in three days, then you might want to buy an Aix-en-Provence city pass. Unfortunately it’s only available at the Tourist Information Office, not at the site entrances, so you do need to plan a bit in advance.
Musée Granet
The gem of Aix-en-Provence’s museum scene, Musée Granet is located in the Quartier Mazarin district, just south of Cours Mirabeau. Here, you’ll find ten paintings by Paul Cézanne, along with other works by Ingres, Rembrandt, Rubens and Picasso.
Musée des Tapisseries
I was the only person in the Museum of Tapestries on the day that I visited, and I loved that I could explore the building that used to be the Archibishop’s Palace entirely on my own. Yes, the tapestries are huge and ornate and of great artistic significance, but it was definitely the Gothic interiors that I’ll remember most.
Musée de Vieil Aix
In the “Museum of Old Aix” you can step back in time, into a 17th-century hotel particulier, to see how the aristocracy once lived. Most of the collection once belonged to Marie d’Estienne de Saint-Jean, and it was she who founded the museum in 1932. The highlights here include the architectural surroundings, Marie’s marionette collection, and a unique model for a dome that was intended to be installed in Saint Peter’s basilica in Rome, but that ultimately ended up here.
Musée Arbaud
For lovers of the decorative arts, this museum in the Quartier Mazarin showcases regional pottery, glassware and ceramics, along with other works such as paintings, illustrations, sculptures and manuscripts. According to the city, visits must be organized in advance, so consider having your accommodation call or email on your behalf.
Musée du Calisson
If you fall in love with Aix’s delicious calisson candies, you can head a few kilometers outside the city center to the Museum of Calissons! Owned by Le Roy René, one of the biggest local confectioners, this museum takes you into the calisson factory, through their fruit and almond gardens and, of course, to their factory shop. You can join a guided tour (in French) or call ahead to see if they can accommodate a self-guided visit.
The Provençal Markets
As I mentioned above, Cours Mirabeau becomes a major regional market three days per week. However, Aix-en-Provence is home to several other markets as well.
Seven days a week, the pretty square at Place Richelme (shown above) serves as a typical regional food market. This is the perfect place to pick up bread, cheese, fruits, vegetables and condiments directly from the producers.
When the Cours Mirabeau market is in full swing (Tuesday, Thurday and Saturday), many of the food vendors spill over into the Place des Precheurs and Place Verdun, a few blocks north. On the same days, flower vendors set up their displays in the square in front of City Hall.
Tours of Provence from Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence is perfectly situated in the center of Provence, midway between the Mediterranean coast and the inland cities of Avignon and Arles. This makes it a great home base for day trips to the surrounding areas. Whether you want to take dreamy photos in a lavender field, dip your toes in the crystalline Verdon River or sample the local wines, one of these day trips from Aix-en-Provence will be the highlight of trip:
- Wine Tour in Cézanne’s Countryside – The vineyards around Aix-en-Provence produce some of the country’s most special wines, and this half-day, small-group tour will take you to two different vineyards to meet the producers and sample their red, white and rosé wines.
- Morning Tour of the Lavender Fields – This seasonal tour runs only in lavender season (typically June and July). You’ll travel by minibus to the Plateau de Valensole, where you’ll learn about the growing and harvesting of the local lavender plants and have lots of opportunities to take Insta-worthy photos.
- Day Trip to the Verdon Canyon and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie – The Verdon Canyon is nearly impossible to visit by public transportation, so this tour is perfect for anyone traveling without a car. You’ll see the stunning canyon with its azure waters, visit the pottery workshops in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie (officially one of the most beautiful villages in France) and, in season, stop at a beautiful lavender field.
Quartier Mazarin
Quartier Mazarin is the neighborhood south of Cours Mirabeau and north of Boulevard de Roi Rene. This is the area where I stayed in Aix-en-Provence, and I loved its proximity to the historic center (it’s just a three-minute walk) combined with a more local atmosphere.
This area is known for its hotel particuliers, or luxurious townhouses that were constructed for wealthy French nobles and merchants. Some of the most famous mansions include Hotel de Caumont and Hotel de Gallifet, both of which host temporary exhibits. Even if you’re not interested in whatever is showing, it’s worth visiting to check out the interior!
You can also stay in an opulent hotel particulier at the Hotel Particulier le 28, a boutique hotel with a private garden, two terraces, spa and cocktail bar. You’d pay double the price for this kind of luxury in Paris!
This is also where you’ll find the Fountain of the Four Dolphins (shown above), a seventeenth-century fountain at a pretty crossroads, and the Church of Saint Jean de Malt, which was the first Gothic-style building to be constructed anywhere in Provence.
Aix-en-Provence in 1 or 2 Days
If you have one day in Aix-en-Provence, try to plan your visit for a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday, when the markets will be bustling and you’ll see Provençal life at its most endearing. Download a copy of the Paul Cézanne self-guided walking tour linked above, and use it as a rough guide as you explore the historic city center. Before you leave, stop for a glass of wine at one of the restaurants on Cours Mirabeau.
With two days in Aix-en-Provence, start your second day with a leisurely breakfast at one of the cafes lining Place Richelme. Add a visit to either the Fondation Vasarely (my top choice!) or Paul Cézanne’s Atelier (reserve well in advance) and the Field of Painters. You could actually visit all three if you take a quick taxi ride between the Fondation and the Atelier, then walk up to the field and return to town on foot.
Don’t forget to check out my guide to the best hotels in Aix-en-Provence, including affordable options within easy walking distance of the city center (and including at least one luxury option that promises to be perfect for “butterfly catching”!)
If you’re in Provence in August, consider visiting the annual Sault Lavender Festival.
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