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[Douglas Cyr]

Hello,

I have a really beaten up pair of EV ELX112P's (see attached pictures for examples), and I wanted to clean them up a little bit for resale in the future. I was thinking of just spray painting over the chipped spots, but is there a best type of spray paint for this or a better way of getting them to look nicer?

Thanks,
Doug

PS If this is the wrong forum for this post let me know, it seemed to make sense to me.

[Jerome Malsack]

you can disassemble them and then repaint possibly with Parts-express   https://www.parts-express.com/exohyde-pro-grade-textured-protective-speaker-cabinet-coating-gallon-black--260-2102

using some automotive bondo you could fill in the dings and fill in holes.   sand and finish with the parts express paint.   I also have used some rustoleum  truck body coating on some of my gear. 

[Tim Weaver]

Or you can go the cheap and dirty route and hit them with some satin black rattle can.

I've found using the Satin Black is far superior than the flat. The satin finish matches almost everything better, it stays black and doesn't get chalky, and it lasts far longer than the flat. I would use it universally on everything. Mic stands, coated speakers, carpeted speakers, road cases, and those "I shouldn't be using this" metal hardware store quad boxes.

[duane massey]

I just purchased a gallon of the exohyde paint and so far I am impressed. I'm used to working with Duratex, which is a thick paint as well, but not very durable, and Exohyde seems to be far superior, yet it is a water-clean-up product with no fumes.

[John Halliburton]

I just purchased a gallon of the exohyde paint and so far I am impressed. I'm used to working with Duratex, which is a thick paint as well, but not very durable, and Exohyde seems to be far superior, yet it is a water-clean-up product with no fumes.

Duane's got it.  I've used both as well, and agree.

Careful on the bondo recommendation, sometimes Durham's Rock Hard Putty provides better adhesion for these top coats. Testing on a scrap piece may save you a headache down the line.

One point, when touching up, don't sand with anything finer than 80 grit, and make sure you blow(if you have access to an air compressor) or vacuum/brush as much of the dust out and off the cabinet before applying the finish. 

On touch ups for small areas I use a small "acid brush" and tab the exohyde or duratex to produce a textured finish. A little practice and you will learn to get pretty close to whatever original texture finish you're restoring.  A second coat is not out of the question either, and it helps build up the finish to match the original.

Best regards,

John

[duane massey]

like John, I also use Durham's (Home Depot carries it, but sometimes hard to see in the store
). I have found that adding a small amount of Carpenter's glue in with the mix after the water helps with issues if you use water-based paint over it, but it is  much easier to work with than "Bondo---".

[Alec Spence]

Or you can go the cheap and dirty route and hit them with some satin black rattle can.

And of course quicker/dirtier still is to use black Sharpie on small dings.  Admittedly, yours are past this.

[Ed Taylor]

Or you can go the cheap and dirty route and hit them with some satin black rattle can.

I've found using the Satin Black is far superior than the flat. The satin finish matches almost everything better, it stays black and doesn't get chalky, and it lasts far longer than the flat. I would use it universally on everything. Mic stands, coated speakers, carpeted speakers, road cases, and those "I shouldn't be using this" metal hardware store quad boxes.

gotta confess...over the last 20 yrs..that was what we almost always did...gear was always coming and going..so there was always a couple cans of spray to hit em as needed...up close in the light?...yeah...defintely didn't look new..but on stage, at distance, in dark, under stage lights...no bare wood was showing..it worked just fine... I always kept a certain number of speakers set aside just for those high end events...heck I've even still got  a pair of old mackie 450s in their original bags that look new as the day I bought em..the boys have always known that they don't get to pull the "clean" speakers for floor wedges, etc..

[Don T. Williams]

For very small areas, there are "Paint Marker Sticks" from several sources.  I have the Markel brand with good results.

[Brian Jojade]

gotta confess...over the last 20 yrs..that was what we almost always did...gear was always coming and going..so there was always a couple cans of spray to hit em as needed...up close in the light?...yeah...defintely didn't look new..but on stage, at distance, in dark, under stage lights...no bare wood was showing..it worked just fine... I always kept a certain number of speakers set aside just for those high end events...heck I've even still got  a pair of old mackie 450s in their original bags that look new as the day I bought em..the boys have always known that they don't get to pull the "clean" speakers for floor wedges, etc..

Exactly.  The more you work in production, the more you realize how ratty some stuff may look like up close.  As long as it looks fine from the working distance to the crowd (or camera) is what really matters.  It doesn't need to be showroom perfect for most events. 

Bare wood is easily visible from quite a distance, but slap some black paint on it, and you couldn't tell it apart from brand new 100 feet away.

Of course, as you pointed out, there are special cases where people will be closer to the rig than others and that's when having the pretty stuff matters.  Instead of even rotation of gear, saving some stuff to look pretty isn't a bad idea.

[ProSoundWeb Community]