Have you ever wondered what the Amalfi Coast was like before it became one of the most coveted destinations in the world with millions of visitors each year? You can do a little time travel if you head down from this gilded area to another splendid, although more rustic strip of Campania seaside called the Cilento Coast, which starts south of Salerno and runs approximately to the town of Sapri. With a low-key vibe and stunning seaside, Cilento is an Italian family vacation favorite, although it attracts its share of high-profile visitors, like Luca Cordero di Montezemolo, one of Italy’s most charismatic businessmen (he headed up Fiat and Ferrari), who sailed along this coast last summer. Your euro will go farther here than in many Amalfi towns, and you’ll have more room to spread out on the beach, too. Here are five reasons to check it out.
1. Great beaches with transparent waters colored a kaleidoscope of blues and greens. While there are sandy beaches along the Amalfi Coast, you’ll find more to choose from here, the majority far less crowded, except for peak holiday weeks in August, and a number with Bandiera Blu (Blue Flag) status. The Cala Bianca (Marina di Camerota) was once designated Italy’s most beautiful beach and for good reason—it is tucked in a cliff-protected cove with an aqua-green sea. The Palinuro beaches, like the Arco Naturale with dramatic rock formations; the wonderfully named Baia del Buondormire (Bay of Good Sleep), a crescent-shape slice of paradise rimmed by striking cliffs; and Capo Palinuro’s many grottoes, including a brilliantly colored Blue Grotto, are just a few of the coastal havens to escape to.
2. The lovely seaside villages. Cilento towns and villages won’t offer the jet-set aura of the Amalfi Coast, but that’s the point of coming here. You’ll discover many evocative places to stop as you travel the coast, among them Agropoli, 11 kilometers from Greek-era Paestum, which offers sandy beaches, and a bit more "modern" history—a castle with origins in Byzantine times, a medieval center, and 16th- and 17th-century churches. Castellabate, made up of several hamlets, and designated one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, also has a medieval core (listed as a World Heritage site), and a hillside perch where you can take in sweeping sea views. Acciaroli, known for the longevity of its residents, is another atmospheric coastal haven with a Bandiera Blu beach.
3. There are major Greek ruins. Complement a visit to Pompeii with a stop at Paestum (about 80 kilometers away), once a significant Greek settlement, called Poseidonia, and now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Dating from roughly the sixth century B.C., it is home to splendid Greek Doric temples, honoring the gods of Hera, Athena and Neptune, that are among the most important ancient ruins in Italy. After visiting the grounds, where you’ll also find a Roman forum and amphitheater, head to the nearby National Archaeological Museum, with a trove of priceless artifacts. While here make sure to check out the beautiful fresco-like tomb paintings dating from the 4th century BC.
4. You’ll eat really well and healthily, too— just ask the centenarians. If you ever doubted the Mediterranean diet is good for you, visit Acciaroli, the hamlet on the Cilento Coast famous for its numerous centenarians. Researchers head here to learn about the living and eating habits of these long-living locals, whose food is fresh from the sea or homegrown and who use rosemary as a popular seasoning. The study of Cilentani longevity began decades ago, when physiologist Ancel Keys, who analyzed and popularized the benefits of the Mediterranean diet, came to the area--Keys himself lived to be 100. (There’s even a Living Museum of the Mediterranean Diet in Pioppi, a hamlet closet to Acciaroli, where Keys once lived). When visiting indulge in the bounty of fresh seafood, pasta favorites like lasagne with chickpeas; cavatelli with tomato sauce; acquasale (like bruschetta); stuffed anchovies; or pizza with goat cheese. For restaurants check out A Casa di Delia in Pioppi (the restaurant’s proprietor Delia Morinelli was Ancel Keys’ cook); Ristorante Il Cormorano in Porto di Agropoli, a favorite of Italian celebs--order the insalate di mare or zuppetta di pesce while enjoying the sea views. The Osteria 1861 in Santa Maria di Castellabate has a highly regarded restaurant helmed by Antonio Tafuro.
5. The mozzarella is sublime. One of Italy’s prime mozzarella di bufula producing areas, the Cilento countryside is dotted with caseifici churning out the famous milky cheese. Visit the legendary Tenuta Vannulo in Capaccio, an organic farm near Paestum, where the water buffalo are treated like the stars they are in the labor-intensive, artisanal production process with special massages, showers and music—Mozart is apparently on the playlist. All that cosseting goes to ensure the animals are relaxed and capable of producing the best milk they possibly can. The tasting room at the Tenuta is where you can sample the goods, or brave the lines that quickly form to buy the coveted cheese.
Where to stay: Palazzo Belmonte Santa Maria di Castellabate, a historical property dating to the 17th century, is owned by Prince Belmonte, whose family’s roots in southern Italy reach back over 1000 years. There’s a private beach and pool. The Residenza D’Epoca 1861, also in Santa Maria di Castellabate, is a boutique hotel with well-priced airy rooms with sea views.
