The Wolf My Fragrantica

I've worn this fragrance for many years and I'm almost finished with my second 100ml bottle, and I plan to just keep replacing it. I wear mostly niche but I still reach for this one from time to time, it's probably my favorite cheap fragrance of all time.

It's like they took the drydown of Dolce and Gabbana Pour Homme (vintage made in Italy bottle) and made a whole fragrance around that, and it's spectacular imo. Whatever is used here for the tobacco flower is the same ingredient, but here the spice is removed and it's smoothed out even further with an iris accord.

With the low price of this one you'd expect it to have a blast of alcohol in the opening but I've never experienced that with Dreamer. It's smooth from the first second to the last, and really does feel like a hazy dream. Very comforting and easy to wear fragrance. Longevity isn't great so I'll usually carry a decant. Smells best on skin.
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Scent 97/100
Performance 20/100

I hate to admit I like this dull thing, but it's strangely charming. This smells like a 3 star hotel room and will not blow anyone away with complexity or exquisite perfumerey, but it's super relaxing. This would be great to wear after a rough day at work or going to spa. It's simple and like most from this line they're highly synthetic, but there's a familiarity that is very comfy and nostalgic. I own Musc Invisible and wear it around the house when I want to relax and I might get this one too, although I don't think I need a whole bottles. A 10ml will suffice for me. Good release from JHAG.
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Scent 7,3/100
Performance 65/100

I've been testing this for a couple months and I've determined this is right up my alley. Masculine, slightly daring and different. I don't think this will work well for the average Joe, naxos is better for most people. This doesn't smell anything like Penhaligon's Sam or Beaufort Iron Duke which are both great scents as well. This is more daring than Sam, and less challenging than Duke. Although this doesn't have radical niche transitions, this perfume has more going on than the notes would lead you to believe.

I think there's maybe cypriol, synthetic agarwood, maybe a touch of cedar and possibly cypress. I feel there's some vetiver which I believe was used in tandem with other materials to create the gunpowder accord. I can pick up some pepper, minerals, and a peaty earthiness that combines to smell like flint and gun metal. The whiskey and dry tobacco are discernable. I was worried it might smell like cotton candy and there is some sweetness of molasses or spun sugar, but thankfully it's unflavored, and does not smell anything like cotton candy, and I don't consider it a sweet perfume.

I haven't smelled anything else like this one so it gets bonus points for being original. My only complaint is projection is below average so if you want that, you have to spray heavy or refresh with a decant. Longevity isn't bad. Great for nights out on the town and I'd say this one would work best for older guys, but wear what you want. Uber masculine and fun to wear.
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Scent 85/100
Performance 65/100

The first 4-5 times I wore this I hated the praline accord it so I put it away for a 2-3 months, and now I'm testing it again. That god awful praline note no longer sticks out like a sore thumb, and I'm getting more of the good stuff which is an ashy, bakhoor type oud, leather, and a nice hit of oakmoss. It's hard to explain but It has a coal smell but in a clean way, thanks to aldeydes and musk. It's also a bit scratchy and powdery on my skin, and the drydown has a vintage chypre vibe. I don't find this difficult to pull off but I wear and enjoy some wild niche fragrances, so your mileage may vary. I still hate the praline, but I can tolerate it now. Performance on my skin is fantastic.

Conclusion : The praline accord nearly killed this fragrance for me, but I've learned to tune it out and enjoy the parts I enjoy.
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Scent 68/100
Performance 85/100

This is kind of your standard issue citrus, neroli, musk fragrance. I didn't notice any staining or residue as others have reported. The brand says they used South American Mandarin, but they make no mention of the providence of the neroli (which is expensive) and this doesn't smell like natural neroli.

It's fine, I'd never buy it because frankly there's way better stuff out there. I think if you want a top tier Mandarin you should look towards LV Afternoon Swim,19-69 Capri, Guerlain Mandarin Basilic, Atelier Orange Sanguine, or Acqua Di Parma Arancia Di Capri.
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Scent 52/100
Performance 45/100

The opening is a bomb of lemon which sticks around for 30 minutes or so. When the full drydown arrived, I realized that Amouage inadvertently triggered a scent memory for me. The way they created this smoke accord reminds me of firing up charcoal for backyard cookouts on memorial and a 4th of July 🇺🇸

It's not precisely Kingsford by any means, and it doesn't smell like grilling meat per se, but the way the gaiac is mixed with the incense and cade oil it gives me that feeling of the ritual of grilling. Lighting the grill and having a beer while chatting with friends and family. From there you put soaked wood chips over the coals after 15 minutes and begin to make everyone lunch while you enjoy the outdoors and some laughs.

I normally don't like smokey fragrances but I like this one. There's also some nice earthy vetiver here which is great. I won't need a full bottle because I don't want to smell like smoke that often, but I think a 10ml is in order.
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Scent 78/100
Performance 80/100

I haven't been high on the house of Nishane like I was when I first discovered them six or seven years years ago. They have some great fragrances but I got bored and sold B612 and Ani, and I go nose blind to Hacivat very quickly so I sold that one as well. FYF is is a great release but I never picked up a full bottle; same with Zenne, and I've never bothered any of the X fragrances. The only one I kept and still wear to this day is Sultan Vetiver.

A friend sent me a decant of Patchouli Kozha and it's got my blood flowing. I've never been able to try Tom Ford Amber Absolute but if it smells like this, it's a winner. Really great fragrance that I don't think is for beginners.
The opening I pick up mugwort and chamomile mixed with the patchouli right away. It's very herbal, medicinal, and slightly camphoric. The herbal opening reminds me a of something I can't recall, but it might be HDP Ambre 114 or maybe even Jubilation. It also reminds me some of Laudauno Nero in the heart.

Beyond that it starts getting into animalic honey territory with some nice smoke and an tannic leather. Very interesting, and in true Nishane fashion, extremely potent. Smells like a wealthy oil barron.
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Scent 78/100
Performance 85/100

First impression: A friend of mine found a bottle of this discontinued and extremely hard to find 2012 release in London and had it shipped to the states. I think this is the best fragrance I've tried from JP's house. Raspberry, tobacco, plum and patchouli is a fantastic combination and this one sings on my skin. Very complex and feels substantial but not suffocating like some patchouli can be. Really well crafted fragrance that hopefully will be released again. The 3.76 overall rating doesn't do this one justice IMO.

First impression: Everything the guy below me says is accurate although I cannot arrest to the part about women's compliments, as I literally just put this on skin. Jasmine, ylang ylang, lots of tuberose, layered over a creamy bed of musk.
It smells good but it also smells like a million other women's perfumes.

First impression: a very interesting and wearable niche. The opening and heart I get the vodka and champagne clearly layered over the amber. The tea pokes it's head out just a bit to let you know it's there, and the amber is persistent and a touch animalic.

I can see why this has received high praise in the community. It takes a familiar genre and really shakes it up in a great way. I'm looking forward to testing further and potentially grabbing a full bottle.

Exactly what you'd expect, a sun tan lotion fragrance made with reasonable quality. Lots of tiare and coconut immediately jump out on my skin. Neroli is there but blended in pretty well giving it a clean feeling. No guaiac to me, but the drydown adds a creamy vanilla Not hyper realistic but doesn't smell overly synthetic either. It doesn't really bring anything new to the table and this has been done many times over. A solid choice if you're looking for something in this genre, but otherwise a ho hum release. Longevity around 6 hours or so, with moderate projection.
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Scent 65/100
Performance 65/100

First impression: it's not easy to impress me with vanilla fragrances. The only one to blow my socks off in the last couple years was the bourbon aged vanilla in the extremely hard to find Kilian Amber Oud, and Vanille from Mon Di Orio. So I wasn't expecting much here, but this one surprised me bit. The frankincense, coumin, wood, patchouli, vetiver, and other ingredients combine to make this very deep and almost mediative.

Gaiac isn't listed, but they might be using a bit here in tandem with the frankincense. The smoke is well placed and does not overcome the other notes.The sandalwood keeps things smooth and pleasing. This one doesn't smell offensive as some with cumin can, it's skillfully applied here by Zerokian. I'm not sure I need a full bottle, but this one is an interesting take on a vanilla fragrance. Worth sampling imo.

First impression of the Ruh Khus (vetiver) flanker: extremely natural perfumery, like you are smelling the ingredients in your hands. High quality vetiver with cypress and and touch of citrus is mainly what I get. Great quality ingredients. Reminds me of a greener and more natural TDH if I had to draw a comparison. The hinoki wood gives it that same flint type vibe

Highly concentrated and well made mint that perfoms admirably. Unfortunately, the overwhelming menthol dominates the scent to the point that I just couldn't enjoy it so I sold my bottle. I'm fine with mint but I believe it may be the absinthe in tandem with everything else that reminds me of smoking menthol cigarettes. There's no tobacco here, but it still reminds me of menthol used in cigs.

I get the slight cooling effect on skin that others have mentioned, but if you're expecting icy hot this isn't that. It's not super noticable unless you spray a ton. There's florals and other stuff going on in addition to the menthol, but that menthol dominates it too much and for too long..I think Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsuer is a better option for me.
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Scent 60/100
Performance 70/100

Wish I'd worn this to my recent dentist appointment, this is a nice minty geranium scent. I recently tried Royal Crown Celebration and that one smells too much like menthol on my skin whereien Geranium Pour Monsuer smells like actual earthy mint. There's a big heap of musk underneath the geranium and mint that smells ultra clean and crisp. Later I get some soft wood and incense but not much stryax. I'm still testing but so far I enjoy this one.

This is a good perfume that does smell like LIDGE. Chocolate is hit or miss for me (mostly miss) but it's balanced so well here. It's the same chocolate vibe as Oriza Legrand Horizon which is my favorite patchouli fragrance.
For me a lynchpin in the Guerlain is the musk and there's something here that's similar but not precisely the same. I'm not sure I get any tea and there's definitely no citrus in Pardon. Not a carbon copy of LIDGE and that's okay by me. More like LIDGE meets Oriza Legrand Horizon, originally released in 1905. The Oud also carries a nice smokey quality that also helps keep it as an original and unique creation, while definitely harkening back to some classics

It starts like a grapefruit bomb with some cumin and booze before the tobacco, oakmoss and an amber base type accord surface. It's all over the place. The cumin and tobacco really throw it off imo. I love citrus and I love tobacco, but I'm not enjoying the hybrid drydown.

I'll keep testing my decant and maybe it will grow on me but so far, I'm not crazy about it. Now I know why I remember seeing so many bottles for sale on the secondary market right after launch. Has a vintage vibe, and not in a good way. Do not blind buy.

Cost aside, the scent is fantastic. Opening has some saffron, vetiver, and raspberry, but that doesn't last and the drydown comes quickly. The vetiver stays, and the sandalwood, musk and cashmere arrive. Very masculine and dense, but at the same time light. It's not flamboyant and doesn't shout, it's got a quiet confidence about it.

I can't think of anything that smells like this in perfumery and it's difficult to describe, but I'm going to give it a shot. Have you ever been to the greenhouse section of home depot? It smells like that (green plants and grasses (vetiver), potting soil (vetiver roots and violet),outdoors (oud and musk) and processed lumber (sandalwood and cedar). Now imagine luxurious versions of these things I've described. I know it's a strange description, but that's the best way I can describe it.
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Wonderful masculine scent with heart stopping price. I can see why some don't understand it, but I think it's great.

Scent 9/10
Performance TBD

The opening is interesting with the pepper and cucumber. Beyond that, I also pick up some citrus and something like carrot. I normally like carrot, but here, combined with violet and base fixatives (ISO E and ambrox) are off-putting .

In the air, it smells very generic, like a guy wearing Dior Sauvage in produce department at the grocery store. In close, it smells like raw potatoes.
The hype is not real IMO - I actually think this is the worst one from the discovery set. Sample first.
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Scent 25/100
Performance 75/100

The opening is a ripe and fresh mandarin supported and lifted up by the rhubarb. It doesn't read as a rhubarb scent per se, it just helps give the mandarin a tart juiciness, without adding sweetness and making it smell artificial, or candy like. There is also a dose of petigrain here, capping off the very nice mandarin accord.

Beyond that, a clean and slightly powdery musk and wood aroma chemical fixatives kick in that lend it some longevity and sillage. It's nice but the base is sort of a generic "cologne" smell that is fairly mundane. I've noticed Herpin using this base in some variation in other scents from the house..If I'm playing armchair perfumer, I personally would have considered adding some neroli, or even better, some natural vetiver oils.

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Conclusion: this is a solid option for an orange dominant fragrance if you can find it for a fair price. But I think someone looking for an orange fragrance should also sample 19-69 Capri, Guerlain Mandarin Basilic, Atelier Orange Sanguine, and ADP, Afternoon Swim, or Arancia (original or newer flanker before making a decision.

Scent 79/100
Performance 65/100

The opening is a delicious and ever so slightly tart Green apple laced with cardamom, oakmoss, and a fruity patchouli. It's very pleasant, fresh and fruity. Specifically, I smell Evernyl which is an oakmoss synthetic replacement that I'm very familiar with.

Beyond that the orris kicks in along with rose, jasmine, tonka, heliotrope, and a maybe touch of benzoin that isn't gourmand. That's how everything unfolds on my skin, I don't get any amber or musk but it's certainly possible it's here and just blended in well. It's worth mentioning that I believe there's ISO E Super here in the base giving it a slight wood shavings vibe.

Overall, a very pleasant perfume that smells expensive, and leans slightly 40/60 feminine, although I'm a man and didn't have much problem wearing it. This house is over hyped and overpriced in my opinion, but this one is very well made by a skilled perfumer. Performance could be better as it's length is about 5-6 hours before requiring a refresh.
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Scent 80/100
Performance 58/100

Opening and heart (which lasts over an hour) is PHENOMENAL. Lavender, powdered woods and musk. I know that some Xerjoff can lean in middle eastern territory which some are uncomfortable, but not here. Super easy to wear. The cedarwood and sandalwood stand out, but I don't get much oud.

At around the 1-1.5 hour mark it morphs into a rose and musk fragrance. Really nice although I prefer the first 1-2 hours more than the final 3-8 hours. Overall a solid fragrance.

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Scent 86/100
Performance 75/100

I rarely wear any designers anymore but I tried this out and I was pleasantly surprised. Clean with some soapy aldeydes combined with iris,. sage, white woods and tonka. Most of the time tonka is way overdosed on mass market fragrances but it's restrained a bit more here. Versatile enough for just about any situation or weather. Strong release from Armani.
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Scent 80/100
Performance 75/100

Testing this one out today and it's very nice. It's like you're wearing 2 fragrances at once, a white floral that is fresh and realistic, and below the surface a rose oud. I don't really detect a distinct pineapple but the opening smells kinda fruity, and cinnamon doesn't stand out either.

They used some high quality natural ingredients because everything smells so real, it's like you're smelling them in a garden after a rain shower. Performance is slightly above average, I think there are probably some chemical fixatives but they are not dosed high which I appreciate, I'd rather have a natural smelling quality perfume than a beastly synthetic one. I won't purchase this because I can't see myself wearing it that often but for those that love florals, this is a home run.
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Scent 85/100
Performance 60/100

It took me a few years but I was lucky enough to get a bottle of this rare release from the Arabian Nights line. It's similar to Kilian Rose Oud but leans more masculine. The red berry fruitiness is muted, and oud is turned up, although not to the point where it dominates or berates. There's less sweetness and no powdery finish like in RO, but the patchouli and cypriol is still there. And the beautiful wet and jammy rose is still there. Perfectly unisex IMO.

Kilian Rose Oud is, in my opinion, a reference scent for jammy rose with almost zero oud. This one is more about the oud which smells like real agarwood. Performance is outstanding. Would it be redundant to own both? Not really, but It doesn't really matter since this fragrance is nearly extinct and impossible to find. I'll savor my bottle, and enjoy it on special occasions.
❤️ 🖤
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Scent 97/100
Performance 90/100

This is not a good cola scent IMO.
19-69 Chinese Tobacco, Czech and Spreake Cuba and Roja Enigma (Extrait) are way better interpretations of cola. Blind buy at your peril, this one smells awful.

I sprayed this on at Marshalls fully expecting a generic scent with a sweet base like 90% of the the stuff out there but what I got surprised me. It smells like a classic that I can't put my finger on. The guy a few spots below me said a summer flanker to opium ph, and he might be right.

The bottle was literally falling apart with cologne leaking everywhere so I wasn't going to buy it, but the fragrance itself wasn't bad. Longevity was poor and lasted 2-3 hours before it was pretty much gone. Projection was very strong initially giving the impression of an eau de cologne.I wouldn't mind using this one as an aftershave or a refreshing edc when I'm in the mood for wearing something with a vintage vibe. Great value for 10 bucks at the discount stores, especially for a juice that was apparently made in England.
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Scent 65/100
Performance 20/100

This is a really interesting scent that initially didn't blow my socks off because it's so subtle. It's in the genre of molecule type fragrances (Another 13, Molecule 01, etc) but being different and distinct from those. The Okoume wood from Gabon reads almost like sandalwood to me. It has a distinct woody smell that when combined with the corriander and other ingredients to smell like paper. More specifically, it smells like craft paper.

Aside from that, the musk accord created here really does smell like human skin. Not dirty skin or freshly showered skin, just skin. It's hard to explain what skin smells like but easy to spot. One of the better "skin smells" I've encountered. My only complaint is the fixative used have (ambermax) is very strong. It provides good performance (particularly longevity) but can trigger headaches. I don't find this one animalic at all when wearing it in cool temperatures, I'll need to try it in the heat.
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Scent 8/10
Performance 8/10

I've worn Oud Wood for around a decade and yes it has performance problems, but I usually spray fairly heavily and/or carry a decant. With the parfum, longevity is solid and definitely better. But it seems to sit closer to the skin which can be generally be expected when we're talking about EDT vs EDP, but I was really hoping parfum would be the best of both worlds. I can get a genuine 100ml of the original for around $160 or less, or I can pay a big premium for the parfum.

If I can get 200ml total for less than what I'd pay for a 50ml, it had better last me all night with 2-3 sprays on skin, and it had better project. I think the original Oud Wood is a perfect 10/10 smell and a 4/10 on performance. I need to test this more, but so far I don't think the parfum is worth it.
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Scent 100/100
Performance TBD

Sort of reminds me of Kilian Gold Knight which is a great fragrance, but to me this one is more about tobacco than anise. What makes this interesting is the tobacco here is unique and has the nuances of Turkish gold, which is a blonde cigarette tobacco from Turkey. Aside from that, the honey is present (like in gold knight) along with some nicely and moderately done spices.

Worth mentioning that this is hardly "animalic" at all. Maybe 3% at best, so it should be fine for most people unless you're a real sensitive wet noodle. Kohrs is much smokier than this formula which has no smoke - the tobacco here is dry leaf. It's not a honey bomb like vintage Kilian back to black, and B2B also has cherry tobacco. Overall this is a great fragrance with a unique tobacco note that keeps me coming back for more.
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Scent 80/100
Performance 60/100

I wore this last night, nice fragrance. I told my friends it reminds me of a distant cousin of TDH combined with a touch of Roja Elysium Parfum cologne. It's missing the dirtiness and flint I love from TDH.Starts off with unripe citrus and citrus peels. The heart puts some green notes into the mix and the drydown is a semi earthy vetiver and musk.

Has a throwback feeling which surprises me coming from Marley in 2024. I like this much more than any other of their fresh offerings. In true PDM fashion, this scent is very long and lasting due to the addition of a powerful aroma chemical fixative. I'd guess it's musk, cashmeran and ISO E. So if you're sensitive to chemicals, this one may trigger a migraine if you spray too much, or too close to your face. Good release.
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Scent 80/100
Performance 80/100

A classic beautiful scent that I've always loved. I've purchased this one many times over for special women in my life, and they've all loved it. Smelled it again recently and it still smells great albeit maybe a little less potent than I remember and a bit more scratchy.

Perhaps it's still long lasting, I don't know, I didn't wear it.
There's a reason this is still sold today, it's a masterpiece and in my opinion, one of the great benchmarks in women's perfume.

I first tried this one 4-5 years ago and loved, but I'd sort of forgotten about it until recently trying it again at Le Labo, and I fell in love with it all over again. I recently purchased a bottle of this one from a trusted seller on Mercari. I chose it over Musc Ravageur, and although I like that one too, the newer formula doesn't feel dirty enough. I also tested Le Lion but my skin amplifies the smoke into the stratosphere with that one.

This is an old fashioned elegant perfume in the same vein as Shalimar but less woody, and despite the old world powdered feeling, reads more like a masculine dandy perfume with my skin chemistry. There's a big dose of benzoin that smells creamy and delicious along with a bit of cinnamon and banana that combined with the musk and animalic notes, make this one a show stopper. It starts dirty and progressively gets ckeaner as time goes on. I have to be very careful in warmer temps as it becomes extremely animalic, moreso than Musc Ravageur. Old world charm, and a joy to wear.
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Scent 95/100
Performance 80/100

@detman be careful with your purchase, tons of fake bottles of this floating around.

A friend of mine sent me a decant and said it smells very similar to Blazing Sam. At first, I didn't see the connection, but as it dries down I can relate a bit. They both share rum, but also a note in the base that smells like a carmex waxy substance. I think Balm of Calm has it dosed higher, in addition to something that smells like shea butter on my skin.

Overall these waxy qualities mixed with lavender and sandalwood make it dry down to an expensive smelling shave balm. Very warm and creamy. You get the rum but it doesn't last beyond about 15-20 minutes so I wouldn't seek this one out looking for booze, it's more of a supporting cast. I also smell a hidden note of coconut or perhaps these notes just create a coconut type of accord. A very nice fragrance that's hard to dislike
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Scent 84/100
Performance TBD

The opening salvo reminds me faintly of a toned down version of Byredo M/Mink. It's slightly pissy musks mixed with the salty mineral ambergris. If you like animalic perfumerey this will be right up your alley, I find it very enjoyable and masculine.There's also a nice earthiness (truffle?) running throughout that helps keep things grounded.

Beyond that, this perfume perfectly mimics actual human musk better than anything I've smelled in niche perfume. It smells like adrenaline, but at also like relaxing and having a beer with friends after a hard days work. I'm older now and sit behind a computer, so the days of hard labor are mostly behind me, but this is very nostalgic.

To someone that can't relate to what I've described, perhaps the best way I can explain it is that it smells like your male relatives when you were younger. They weren't wearing a cologne, just their natural smell. Confident, comforting, and safe. A must try for fans of ambergris and animalics.
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Scent 97/100
Performance 80/100

Lots of amberwood and ethyl matol lends to a very long lasting perfume. The saffron saves this from being a complete snooze fest. BR540 has more depth and is using a better saffron, this one is just sort of a non descript sweetness layered over an amber. No burnt sugar. Smells like there's a touch of caramel buried in here but it's not prominent so it doesn't turn me off. I feel it's a more feminine perfume (feel the same way about BR540) and it lasts pretty much until you sweat it off or shower. Good value from a performance aspect if you like it. Better for the younger crowd but I can see the attraction - smells like candy
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Scent 6.5/10
Performance 8.5/10

A very young smelling fragrance, especially at first, it smells like a fruit salad. When I think of a mature scent my mind goes to deeper notes like labdanum, vetiver or oakmoss. TDH is a good example. Tuscan Leather is another if you like leather.
I think this would be a good gateway into niche. It does bring some leather to the table although it's not a particularly good rendition of leather, but I like when the woods surface.

Does kinda remind me of Aventus especially modern day aventus that is less about birtch tar and that signature Creed musk, and more about bergamot, and ambroxan. Not a bad scent, but I wouldn't personally choose it. Great performance value.
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Scent 6.5/10
Performance 8/10

Spicy rich rose, coffee doesn't read like coffee, more like nuts or nutty. I get some florals and spices. Extremely rich and potent, lasts a really long on me and my skin drinks perfume. It doesn't move me enough to purchase a bottle. I'm picky about rose and only a few have really moved me, and those are: Les Indemodables Rose Jamal, Kilian Rose Oud (red bottle) and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady. I feel like those are best in class rose fragrances.

Although I am aware this was moved over from the private blend line, this to me feels like an elevated mid tier niche perfume that is a rung above something along the lines of Mancera or Montale. Less synthetic than those, while still maintaining incredible performance. Good value if you like it, but not for me.
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Scent 6/10
Performance 9/10

High quality incense and wood with an earthy vegetal texture. I love carrot seed and it combined with the incense is fantastic. The drydown is all about smooth shaved sandalwood and wood dust. Pretty good performance but don't expect a room filler as sandalwood doesn't shout, it's more relaxing and meditative.

Overall a really good perfume and I'd consider a bottle for the right price. If you're a sandalwood lover I'd say this should be on your must try list.
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Scent 8/10
Performance 7/10

I really want to try this because I love bergamot fragrances and wear them a lot, but I did some math first. $630 USD for a 50ml bottle plus tax, works out to roughly 682 (my sales tax rate) with free shipping. That works out to roughly $13.64 per ml, or to take it a step further, $1.36 per spray.

1.36 per spray for a Bergamot fragrance. There are people that say you can't put a price on art and I understand their perspective, but Guerlain is insane to charge this kind of money for a Bergamot with ambroxen and amber aroma chemical fixatives.

I will not slander this perfume as I have not tried it, but these are not expensive materials, they couldn't at least give 100 or 120ml? .
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I've never been to the Olympia Music Hall in France but as an American, this is still strongly still nostalgic to me. It really does smell like I remember the old music halls in the United States smelling. Here, it's taken a step further and people are added to the mix, so it's not just wood you're smelling, but the guests as well.

Additionally, this is how I remember the old theaters and buildings in school smelling back when everything was made out of wood, before plastic and other synthetic materials were used en masse. It does get a touch feminine in the mid from my my nemesis peony, but thankfully it's not strong, and still completely wearable for me as a man.

I love many from this house, but I believe this is Gérald Ghislain's finest artwork. I LOVE when a fragrance can transport me to a time and place, and this one does that. It really makes me feel like a young boy again - in a big and exciting world, filled with possibilities.
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Scent 9.5/10
Performance 7/10

Writing a review after living with this one roughly 2 months. I've owned lots of tropical scents, some of my favorites being Virgin Island Water and Malibu Party in the bay. Those are fun fragrances, but they scream vacation Yolo vibes. This one has more of a mature elegance about it. The lime doesn't shout like VIW, and there is no coconut here. You do get the lime and a bit of mint which gives the mojito feeling but it's doesn't veer sun screen territory like Bond Fire Island, or suntan lotion territory like Tom Ford Soleil Blanc or MMM Beach Walk. No tiare flower here either.

The drydown of this one is some white rum (but not overboard) and a beautiful sugar cane note. It's an understaded mature tropical vibe that reminds me of what DS Durga does with St. Vetyver insofar in that it's more of an abstract tropical approach in the drydown. Make no mistake it's overtly tropical in the beginning, and not as abstract as St. Vetyver, but every bit as enjoyable.

This is a successful business man in khaki pants and a white dress shirt who has a summer home in the Hamptons. He can be on the beach with his family one minute, and step inside to take a business call or jump into a meeting with stakeholders or his team if need be. He's had a drink, maybe two, but he's not drunk. Weekend at Bernie's without the bad attitude or criminal element of Bernie. I think it's a stellar tropical fragrance that has a responsible and buttoned up side.
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Scent 8.4/10
Performance 5/10

Spicy labdanum with some leather.
It does kinda remind me of a distant relative of the blue beast. Unlike most from this house, this one actually has some legs and sticks around for a while. Deep into the drydown, I'd swear I can detect a far away cacao note. Solid release but not a must have in my book.

Scent 7/10
Performance 7/10

I concur with what everyone has said below me. Floral woody musk. Violet and rose 🌹
An all around pleasant fragrance that thankfully doesn't remind me of Bond New York musk, as I can't stand that one.
Light and perfect for spring. Beautiful bottle, heart attack inducing price, leans fem.

The first 30+ minutes it's a citrus vetiver type affair before transitioning to the musk and cashmere. I love musk, but I prefer it to have a bit more horsepower. Very light and minimalistic take. Not a bad release, but it's not lighting my world on fire. And for CC price point, I need to be more impressed and perfume more present, to spring for a bottle. Good perfume that could use a little more character.
Good drydown as a second skin scent with average longevity and minimal sillage. I'd be game at $100 because this would make a nice light office second skin type scent.
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Scent 7/10
Performance 5/10

@hellebelle I bought my 50ml bottle for I believe $60 dollars, 95% full. I wasn't reaching for it so I sold it for 4x what I paid.

Is it just me, or does this smell like honey + the discontinued Kilian Incense Oud from the Arabian Nights collection? Interesting, I'll need to test side by side.

In any case, on its own merit, this is a stellar incense oud fragrance with a distinct green vein running through it. And as the guy below me said, it's sharp and jarring initially.

There are Amouage purists, and then there's everybody else. I'm somewhere in the middle.

I appreciate the artistry of the original, but it smells too much like an actual Moroccan spice market for me to wear. This one is more spicy, but in the right way for my taste. Hard to explain and sacreligious to Amouage purists to say, but I prefer this over the original. Amouage westernized trend has been paying big financial dividends.

I spoke to an acquaintance who works for Amouage, and they had the best sales in history, in 2023.
That can be good (in this case for me personally) and bad, in that they are abandoning masterpieces like Myths Man. But it is what it is. This is a good fragrance, with stout performance.
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Scent 7.5/10
Performance 9/10

White florals, blonde woods, tuberose, osmanthus, powdered incense, and perhaps a rice accord in the same realm as the one used in pure white cologne. The ghost perfumer did an outstanding job creating a perfume that captures the exact texture of luxury silk. Feels like the color white instead of the purple bottle.

I think purple was used because in ancient times, it was a very rare and expensive pigment that was reserved for the ultra wealthy and royalty. I don't think this scent will be understood by most people, which is going to allow me to buy this heavily discounted at some point later this year or next. Bounces between unisex and fem leaning.
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Minimalist elegance.

Scent 8/10
Performance TBD

First impression on skin only: This smells like a lovely fruity floral perfume. I'm not sure I'm getting much of the base notes; on my skin it's mostly the top and mid. I'm a sucker for blackberry, and it mixes wonderfully champaca, osmanthus and tuberose. It's rather weak on me and leans feminine, but I can't deny that it smells great.

It reminds me of something from my past, perhaps a girlfriends perfume or shampoo, perhaps Georgio Beverly Hills which I haven't smelled in 25 years, but I think this would be great on a lady in any casual situation. Fun and uplifting.
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Scent 7.4/10
Performance 5/10

This is compared to portrait of a lady? I haven't spent much time with Poal and maybe I need to smell it again, but this didn't remind me of that perfume. On the bottle itself, it says tobacco and bourbon but those are not the main players, roses and patchouli are the headliners - mostly rose I'd say. The perfume isn't bad, but my problem with this house is that not a single fragrance (I have tried them all including the newly released) is a show stopper. I think Ruy Lopez is very good, but in general, they lack "wow" factor. This is not a bad perfume, but I don't feel like this or any of them are calling my name.
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Scent 6.9/10
Performance 7/10

I'm a fan of Prada. My go to in the summer is D'Iris Cedre (or Infusion D'Homme) if you can find it. I went through a bottle of Amber Pour Homme, and I've always liked L'Homme L'Eau. Luna Rosa Black is good and Cargo De Nuit FANTASTIC but discontinued, and absolutely impossible to find. However I was a bit disappointed in this one. I was really looking forward to the coal (clean or dirty).but I didn't get any. Is this just a marketing gimmick?

Take Sauvage and dilitute it 10:1 and you have the opening and mid of this fragrance. After 30 minutes or so, it gets soapy clean which I like. I could barely smell it on a tester. This house doesn't really shout, they're more about clean elegance. But this one is a little underpowered, even for my taste. There are better Prada fragrance options IMO.
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Scent 5.5/10
Performance 5/10

What you'd expect (green, floral, some citrus) for about an hour, and then it dries down to creamier and softer woody fragrance, reminiscent of something along the lines of S33 or maybe Kilian Sacred Wood. Nice fragrance, one of the better ones from the house.
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Scent 6.5/10
Performance 6)10

Opening is very earthy on my skin, but not in a dirty or dusty way. I get the iris, vetiver, and immortelle from the jump, and it smells like a a good quality orris was used here. After about 20 minutes, it transitions into a musky creamy amber, with just the right amount of sweetness.

I notice the transition takes longer on my clothing than on my bare skin, probably due to body heat. Overall a very enjoyable fragrance that I think I could use in just about any situation. Strong like, with superb blending, and good performance so far, which are indicative of Harmonist perfumerey IMO.
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Scent 8/10
Performance TBD

Appealing and creamy. Dries down suprisingly spicy on my skin. Bitter orange is one of my favorite citrus notes and it's here mixed with the woods. Also has a waxy feeling. Lots of mass appeal with this one, easy to wear, easy to like. I don't get the spice bomb comparison at all. Performance is solid.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance 7.5/10

Opening does smell metallic thanks to the aldeydes, and thereafter, they lift up the rose and jasmine. I love the use of orange blossom which is used to balance and smooth things out. Drydown is rose and musk. I can see why this one is rated highly. Leans feminine, would be great on a lady Performance seems to be good as usual, but I'll need to test further to confirm.
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Scent 7.5/10
Performance TBD

First impression: This is compared to Montale Sand Flowers which is very very similar to Comptoir Sud De Pacific, and I can confirm it has nothing to do with either of those. I haven't tried the issey miyake so I can't speak for that comparison. It smells nothing like Nicolai Perfumer Patchouli Intense either.

Opening I get an ozonic vibe along with with a bit of seaweed before the ambergris arrives. Suprisingly, the fragrance itself is not salty, but carries an herbal quality. The ambergris material doesn't smell like the real ambergris I have in my other fragrances or genuine ambergris I've smelled. It has an animalic quality to it that may be off-putting up close as it slightly resembles halitosis. Overall, I'd say it's okay. Not bad, but also not great. I'll update my thoughts after further testing.

I LOVE this opening. Saffron, ozone and some slight gasoline.with an animalic tinge. Afterwards it becomes more animalic and the leather comes forward. Into the drydown and the leather turns slightly dusty and powedery. I also get some wood in the base. Davidoff has some thow away fragrances so it's easy to forget they are a luxury Swiss cigar maker.

Zino Davidoff was so serious about quality he burned 100,000 of his expensive cuban cigars because he didn't feel they were good enough. This fragrance is my favorite of the blends collection, with agarwood being second, followed by amber and wood. Great release, pity it's discontinued.
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Scent 8.5/10
Performance 8.5/10

Rich deep tobacco loaded with balsams, amber and wood. My 10ml has aged 2 years and the coffee has toned down or I don't sense it as much as I remember. Lots of complexity here with great performance. May stain clothes but I prefer to wear on skin anyway. Beautiful natural perfumery.

Scent 9.1/10
Performance 7/10

This fragrance reminds me of a saying. Just because it can be done, doesn't mean it should be done. In theory, this should not work for me because they threw in frangipani, which is a staple in tropical fragrances. Then they added tobacco, coffee, and leather, which is really odd and normally wouldn't mesh well with frangipani.

But it does work, and credit to the perfumer for weaving the notes of a potential disaster, into a wearable fragrance. It's an interesting tropical esq type fragrance that is held together by traditional heavier base notes. I probably won't buy this because I have no need or desire for a hybrid type fragrance. But I give points for creativity and skilled perfumery of turning lemons into lemonade.

Scent 5.5/10
Performance 7/10

An amber by which many amber fragrances are measured, and for good reason. Extremely aromatic, rich, and bold amber. Feels a little more middle eastern than French. I love the use of bay leaf and other herbs which makes this one feel exotic and special. I'm testing a 5ml decant and I find myself reaching for this one quite a bit in cold weather, so I'm planning on upgrading to a full bottle.
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A top tier amber in my book, with great performance to boot..

Scent 7/10
Performance 8/10

I got a sample from the reviewer below me (he knows I like musk, aldeydes, soap etc) and I'm really digging this one. It smells like a more approachable labdanum 18 (which I love) but with the fresh notes of eucalyptus and anis. Although I know nothing about the Sumo, I can imagine this being the smell of the sport perhaps.

There's a very very very slight funk to the musk that occasionally will give me whiffs of baby shit in the first 30 minutes, but don't let that scare you away 😂. I already own paper soap by the house of J-Scent, and now I'm on the lookout for a partial of Sumo, and a discovery set.


Scent 8.8/10
Performance TBD

My friends at Intio let me try this one. In the same realm as side effect+ congnac and fruity cherry. This will probably sell well as cherry is very en vogue

I've smelled many citrus fragrances with a focus on bergamot over the years, and I can truly say this one is unique and more complex than I expected. First, there's zero sweetness which is not common. The opening is a fresh, slightly acidic and tart bergamot which smells of good quality. It's quickly joined by a good dose of petigrain.that sticks around until the drydown. This is not a one trick pony bergamot, as it's then joined with low doses of white florals, and iris, and bigger dose of vetiver. I actually don't get much pepper until later into the life and it's not strong. It's drydown is essentially a vetiver dusted with iris and sandalwood. There's some musk but it never goes soapy like many citrus fragrances with this sort of classic feeling. Very nice fragrance that I think leans mature. The bottle is particularly beautiful and feels high quality with a nicely textured painted pattern and metal plaque and cap. Probably the most handsome citrus fragrance bottle I've owned. Performance is about what you'd expect, not great, (4 hours) but that's to be expected to some degree.
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Points for being unique and complex but if I'm nitpicking, I'd like my bergamot to have more pop or be more tart. This will not beat out my top bergamot fragrances ADP Bergamotto or B22 from Le Labo, but this will get some use when I crave an acidic bergamot with clean vetiver sandalwood drydown.

Scent 7.4/10
Performance 4/10

P. S. This has nothing to do with Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot which is heavy on florals, gardenia and an warm amber base.

I'm not really a fan of this house in general, but they have a few good ones and this is one of those. I normally don't like tea, but this smells like the most expensive luxury tea you can imagine. The davana, rum and patchouli are perfectly blended in here and it smells almost regal. Like I'd imagine the vibe in the tea room at Windsor Palace. If you like something along the lines but not precisely like Le Labo Noir 29, but more aromatic with a splash of booze, I think you'll enjoy this one.
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Scent 8/10
Performance 7.5/10

I tried this blind expecting leather of course. What I got was a massive bomb of beautiful iris. Once you move on from the iris stage it sweetens us and finally reveals a soft leather along with woods. I've tried probably at 20 or more of these Armani Prive scents, and the majority of them are very good. However some have performance problems and this is one of those.

I sold Cuir Noir even though I thought the smell was stunning, I could not handle the non existent sillage and projection. I'm not a performance freak and I can deal with poor longevity, but if projection is so low that neither me nor the people around me can smell it, then what's the point of wearing it? Very soft projection on this but longevity was probably 9 hours on skin for Cuir Zerzura. This is only my first impression wearing, so I'll continue to test. No denying this fragrance is beautiful if you like iris.
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Scent 8/10
Performance 6/10

💯% agree with @JmThms review below. A smokier take on D'Orsay Le Dandy which is a stellar fragrance in its own right.

I am impressed with what Fremont did with this smoke note considering the era and probably budget he was working with. It smells very realistic burning tobacco and perhaps charcoal and wood on my skin.

Very well done fragrance. Not something I could wear as a signature but on certain occasions when I want smoke this would be the ticket. Excellent craftsmanship by Harry Fremont. A far cry from what has been released over the past 10 years from Kors.

Sweet opening which made me think I wasn't going to like it but after a short time it dries down to rich dark berries, cinnamon, saffron, and oud. Slightly medicinal and camphoric but overall a very nice scent. Works well for a night out in cool/cold weather. Pretty good sillage. Lasts on my skin around 8-9 hours approximately.
I like this one and friends like it as well. Points for being unique as well.
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Scent 8.2/10
Performance 8/10

Hmmm. Very niche and I can see how the average person may not like this. Basilica is an architect style used in Roman times and churches but the opening is straight up strong tyme and clary sage. Very very strong. After that, it goes into a dark incense and cypriol. Do I get the milk note? I suppose, but I don't think anyone would identify that or interpret it without a prompt from the manufacturer.

Overall it's not bad, but you need to really like smokey incense and dark scents. The cypriol isn't the kind that smells like paper, it's smells like dark resinoids. As it dries down and gets weaker (but not weak) it's a bit more pleasant and wearable.

It sort of reminds me of a noir flanker of Tom Ford Fabulous without any vanilla, lavender or tonka, and replaced with lots of incense and cypriol. In fact if you told me this contains oud and leather I'd 100% believe you because there's a leather and oud vibe that smells like rubber on my skin. I need to tread lightly with this one because it's easily overwhelming.
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Scent 5/10
Performance 8.5/10

Very nice scent but not for everyone. Certain notes are a red herring, particularly red berries. This can be simplified as a citron pine oakmoss fragrance, with a heart of earthy yellow tagetes and lilies. There's a touch of earthy vetiver and musk in the base. Strongly reminds me of Bortnikoff Cologne Celeste to the point where I don't think the average person may be able to tell the difference between the two in the air.

This scent has a pungency from these ingredients (particularly citron pine mixture) that I think the average fragrance fan may not enjoy but I believe niche aficionados will likely appreciate. Performance is very strong bordering on nuclear. Extremely versatile and can be worn in just about any situation and weather, provided you like the vibe this one puts out. For me I've got to be in the mood for it just like with the Bortnikoff. I'd go as far as saying if you do not like earthy yellow plant matter, citron, pine, oakmoss you will NOT like this one. For me, I think it's great when I'm in the mood to enjoy it. Once you smell this one, you will never forget it. You will either love it or hate it. Strong like!
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Scent 8.3/10
Performance 8.3/10

Interesting scent. It really does give the feeling of the color brown like the bottle and ingredients. I bought this blind because I found the idea of a desert landscape in tandem whiskey and cacao a lofty and compelling idea, and I wanted to see how the perfumer approached this idea.

SHL accomplished his vision by having both in unison, with the top and mid of booze (without feeling like a liquor focused scent) and a heavier dose of cacao on a bed of vetiver, patchouli, vanilla and smooth woods. Typically, sand is represented with immortelle but it's possible that combination may have clashed. I personally would have chosen to include dates (fruit) and perhaps palm leaf to represent the desert, but this is his art, not mine.

I'm picky about cacao but it's used well here and smells like good quality. A fun fragrance that I think will appeal to folks into artistic side of fragrances (me)and casual fans that just want something that smells good around their friends and family. However, I generally don't wear gourmand type scents very often so I'll probably sell it. Can be worn casual or formal, preferably in cool/cold temps.
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Overall a fun and well made fragrance. It doesn't smell like anything else in perfumery so points for originality. I'd say it's sort of the same vibe, but not the same smell as Kilian Black Phantom, if that makes sense. If you love the vibe of Phantom, you'll love this one. Strong performer, 3-4 sprays lasts me all night and has great sillage.

🤎(°,,°)
Scent 7.5/10
Performance 8/10

I've been wearing Oud Wood for at least 10 years. Before I got heavily into fragrance (many niche bottles)
it was my signature scent, and I wore it every day for a year straight. So I'm very familiar with TF OW, and this ain't it! Not even close.

If you're looking for a true clone, get Blackstone Sandalwood. It's in a matte Gray bottle. They sell both of these at TJ Max for dirt cheap.

I own an older bottle from early 2017 and it's an amazing scent with incredible performance. I was shocked when I tried the modern formula at Sephora. It smells completely different. The 2023 scent has good performance but it smells like it's loaded with artificial sweeteners. It's not terrible, but not anywhere near the older bottles.

Try them side by side and you'll see what I'm talking about. In the vintage the cherry and honey leap off your skin. The tobacco is detectable and the amber and benzoin is rich and luxurious.
I suggest you get an older bottle if you can. Este Lauder screwed up an excellent formula.

I blind bought this one because I'm a fan of vintage Kilian and I was blown away at first sniff. This is actually one of the best fragrances from the house. It's extremely hard to find and expensive, which is why you don't hear about it. But trust me, this would be super popular if it was released today, in 2024. Unlike some some of the Arabian Nights collection, this one is completely wearable by westerners and is very pleasing to the general public.

Kilian Hennessy said he wanted to make this an oud fragrance that would have the animalic and controversial properties removed, and replaced with Madagascar Vanilla and benzoin tears.The vanilla smells like it's been has been barrel aged. In addition to the aged vanilla. The best way I can describe the drydown is to imagine an expensive creamy sassafras (root beer). This is one of the best vanilla fragrances I've ever smelled in my life. I'm still testing on skin but performance seems good from my bottle so far. Thankfully the person I bought this vintage bottle from is a collector, so the bottle and juice are in perfect condition. This one truly is a hidden gem. It took me 3+ years of waiting patiently to find a good price, and I couldn't be happier 😁
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Scent 10/10
Performance 6.9/10

Very nice scent that is amaretto dominant with touches of herbs, lavender and clean musk. I'm not sure I get much ceder, but perhaps it's blended well and I can't identify water notes but perhaps it provides a way to cut through the heavier amaretto. Amaretto is sweet, and this is sweet too, but I can tell they made an attempt to cut through this dense sweetness so it doesn't come off like Feve Delicieuse, or a more dense gourmand perfume. The rose comes through too but mixed with the amaretto it can be mistaken for cherry in the air. Up close, it's easier to identify as rose. Overall a very nice scent at a fair price on the gray market.

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Scent 7.5/10
Performance 7.5/10

The oakmoss, saffron, leather, patchouli, herbs (particularly corriander and rosemary) oud, clove, and labdanum (which presents as both smoke and musk) are apparent upon first sniff. The saffron seems to disappear as the the pine surfaces. I thought I might be smelling birtch or even incense in there somewhere and it could present, or perhaps it's labdanum. There's earthiness as well. This is pretty complex stuff but you can pick some notes blind smelling.

Speaking of complex, this is compared to Bodicea Complex which I think is a stretch however, they do share some characteristics like smoke, pine resins, spice, oud and labdanum. Overall, I really like this one. The blend smells good on skin and clothes and it lasted me all night, so a bottle will last lifetime. Not so niche you cannot wear outdoors, there's a hint of fruity sweetness along with green notes and herbs that tame the very slight animalic oud/labdanum. It's also easier to pull of (in western countries) than Bodicea Complex.
--------------------------------------------------------Great scent but not worth retail of 310 but let's be honest, who actually pays these absurd prices? You can find on the gray market in the US right now for $120, which is a fair price if you like it.

Scent 7/10
Performance 8/10

First wearing impression: A vintage esque citrus aromatic lavender but done in a way that retains a smidge of contemporary feels from judicious use of resin and tonka. The opening is a big blast lavender. Shortly thereafter, the citruses start to appear. From there the herbs rise up as well as the wood and vetiver blend.

The lavender never takes a back seat and hangs out into the drydown. Now 4-5 hours after applying and it reveals it's final secret, that Boyds signature creosote surfaces. They use only natural ingredients, and I've noticed that the house uses this note in its other fragrances such as High Desert and Quero, so it must be a house blend they use as a fixative.
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Great fragrance that reminds me of a more interesting and lively version of Czech & Speake Oxford and Cambridge Cologne.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance TBD

First wearing impression: Very interesting and not linear. Bitter and unadulterated vanilla. Very little sweetness. Raw vanilla pod. Simple but beguiling in its depth of the vanilla materials themselves which are done really well. Also unique, doesn't remind me of anything else out there. Of course there's lots of vanilla on the market, but I don't recall anything quite like this. It's vanilla with little frills, but it's good at just what it was designed to be.
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It's a plain vanilla, that is just plain good.

Scent 8/10
Performance 9/10 (longevity is excellent and lasted through a shower 8-9 hours later

Yes, reminds me of TF NDN but not as dense and without the truffle note but has a little sweetened coffee. Long lasting and unisex. Great fragrance but I'd probably choose NDN because I like the truffle note.

Scent 7/10
Performance 8/10

The original was fantastic but too feminine for me. Let's see if they've changed anything with this new release or it it's just the same perfume in a different bottle.

I wore this one on a warm day about a week ago (got a decant from the store) after not having worn it for years. Still an all star. People complain about performance (myself included) but my most recent test wearing I got about 6-7 hours on my skin, and I only remember getting 3-4 before. It (2023 batch) seemed a bit more indolic than I remember but not bothersome. Love this and the 4711 family of scents.
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Scent 9/10
Performance 6.5/10

This is one of the ones I was most looking forward to trying from Omanluxury, and it doesn't disappoint. A spicy oudy aromatic that dries down to a lightly smoked leather. I think it's a solid release but not a masterpiece and I'm leaning towards others from the house that I like more. If you're looking for a high quality leather this is a great option, but I strongly reminds me of something I've tried in the past. Looking at the comparisons and perhaps it's Amouage XV but I'd need to smell that one again to be sure. In any case, a solid release with strong performance.
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Scent 7/10
Performance 8.5/10

This is what I was looking for when I bought Blvgari Aqva Marine. Unfortunately, that one is so weak I had to strain to smell anything, even immediately after I sprayed it. Aquione doesn't have that problem. It lasts a long time and has solid projection so instead of pumping 20 sprays like the Blvgari, you only need 2-3 sprays of this one.

The opening I get citrus, seaweed, and some ambergris. There's a little metallic vibe going on an a touch of beach wood. I believe this also carries fennel even though it isn't listed. It smells realistically like you sprayed the essence of seawater on your skin.
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Final Thoughts: Reminds me of Blvgari Aqva Marine and a little bit of Profumum Roma Acqua di Sale. Very good aquatic marine fragrance.

Scent 7/10
Performance 7.5/10

People like to complain about how popular western fragrances houses with oud in the name, have no real oud. Sometimes they like to imagine how good they'd be if they contained oud. Do you want to know what, for example, an MFK would smell like with real oud? Then look no further than Dejan my friends.

This is real oud, and it's not messing around. This oud is not shy, and jumps right out of the bottle and into your nostrils, with no fucks given. It's animalic, salty, tangy, medicinal, and somewhat dank initially. But hold on and wait 15-20 minutes, and you're rewarded. After the oud has calmed down, the rose, and earthy cypriol start peek out, slightly sweetened by something.

From this point on, you have a deadly sexy rose oud on your hands. I'm personally sick of rose ouds, but the real oud here gives it an extra dimension. Smells like money and pure class. A wealthy business person. Would work well with a suit.
My only knocks on it are the opening 20-30 minutes most people around you will not like it (I live in North America) and performance seems moderate. But keep in mind my skin eats fragrance, and I'm testing a decant, so I'm not putting on full sprays.
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Scent 9/10
Performance 6/10

This is a very nice fragrance and as the reviewer below me suggests, it is more like vellum (calf skin) than leather. It has a beautiful opening of saffron, sweetened red berries and some cream. The top smells delicate and edible. After that the super soft vellum starts to surface which is a nice change of pace from typical leather or less typical, suede.

Most fragrances from this house are pretty strong beasts, and this one is no slouch, but it's probably the most conservative from what I've tried so far. I saw a comparison to PDM Godolphin which I hate because the fruit note they use is awful, and doesn't go away. If you took Godolphin, made the fruit note very good, and turned the drydown into a calf skin, then I suppose I could see some similarities.
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Overall a great fragrance, but I'm not sure I need a bottle. I think Oud Aquilaria, Dejan, and Angham are good enough to own.

Scent 7.6/10
Performance 7/10

First impression: I can see why this one is controversial. The drydown smells like a combination of a dog that needs a bath, wet rocks, and a little citrus. I'll need to test further to see if my opinion changes but so far this is a no. I love ambergris but it's very much overdosed here, as the name says.

First impression. This smells like gasoline, and then the inside of a million dollar luxury automobile, with a little bit of clean motor oil. I'm a car lover, and this is perfect for me. If you love the smell of luxury vehicles, sports cars, gasoline (no electric) and the auto parts store, (I know it sounds weird) definitely try this one.
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Scent 9/10
Performance TBD

First impression: I get where they were going with this one. I believe the idea was that this is the experience of walking on board a luxury yacht and going below deck. The opening you get salty air as you approach the boat. Perhaps you look around awe, and then go below deck. After that, you're onboard and inside the boat, which reeks of luxury wood materials. It is slightly powdery so I'm not sure how that fits in but it's nice.

There's something sweetening it up a bit and I couldn't figure out what it was initially. Later on a caramel type smell is present that gives it a polished feeling, almost like as if a fantasy note for lacquer, without having it smell like actual lacquer. Very nice and also interesting perfumery. There's a very very slight hint of funk here deeply under the surface, perhaps from an agarwood material or actual oud. Longevity is until you shower and wash it off. I initially sprayed my arm the night before I wore it, and I could still smell it 20 hours later.
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Summary: I've never been on a yacht but I have been on luxury boats and this jives with that. Complex fragrance that I'm looking forward to testing further, and I might buy a bottle of this one.

Scent 8.8/10
Performance 10/10

I see this compared to Oud Wood intense and Kilian Pure Oud, both of which I have tried. Oud Wood Intense I tried many years ago when it was sold retail and not yet discontinued. I don't remember specifics about it except that I didn't like it. Kilian Pure Oud I had a pretty decent sized decant of, and I remember it vividly. It smelled like a industrial chemical fire.

This one however, is a different ballgame. It smells like high quality ingredients and does not give me a headache. The saffron and to a lesser extent rose top notes are clear and very nice. The cloves are not overdone and serve to add some spice. I don't get praline thankfully.The full drydown is a slightly animalic , slightly smokey oud and leather.

I'm exploring this house through a discovery set and so far I'm impressed with their work. None so far feel too synthetic and they're using good quality natural ingredients. This one is a night out scent and may be challenging if you're used to western leather scents like for example, ombre leather. Still testing, but I'm enjoying this one so far.

This smells like the most realistic fig leaf I've ever smelled in perfumery. It must have fig or the other ingredients create a fig accord. Or, I suppose this is how the black currant plant smells in real life. In any case, this has a natural green crispness that I'm yet to find anywhere else and it gives me the feeling I'm actually biting into the leaves or snapping the stems right next to my nostrils.

A very lively thing to behold. There's some woodines in the background backing up the hyper realistic green experience. Overall a really refreshing green adventure. I'm not sure where I'd wear this as I assume people would think I've been gardening, but there's something so natural and invigorating about it.
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Scent 9/10
Performance 7.5/10

Outstanding neroli fragrance. I see the comparison to Essenza but this is more of a clean white neroli fragrance with a crisp musky woody base, and I find Essenza more green, zesty, shot of adrenaline. I like them both, but for different reasons. This one is more tranquil than base notes carry a gentle white soapy cleanliness. Longevity is pretty good, but projection could be better.
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Scent 8/10
Performance 7/10

It's opens up with fresh, tangy, green, slightly herbal freshness, and then goes towards the fig accord. I'm sure it was good for it's time but I find it lacking. The Mignonette is an interesting choice and think that kinda ruins the opening for me.
I expected sand dunes and the base is where that comes into play. It's pleasant. I like the soft woody clean feeling and it's made very smooth with I suppose with the addition of vanilla, and has a slight dusty quality while still maintaining freshness. It does remind me slightly of the drydown of Davidoff Goodlife. Overall,.an nice experience that would be good for office scenarios and doesn't smell terribly dated to my nose, but I didn't spray much, so perhaps it catches that vibe with heavy applications. I'm not crazy about the opening 10 minutes but the drydown happens quickly and the base is pretty good.
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Scent 7.5/10
Performance TBD

A pretty and feminine scent. The berrys smell really good mixed with the rose but I think it would be better without the chamomile.
Better than average and well composed, but it doesn't touch top rose fragrances like Les Indemodables Rose Jamal, Kilian Rose Oud or even POAL IMO.

Scent 5.5/10

This should honestly be called osmanthus leaf because it's the main player followed faintly by mate 🌿
A very fresh, clean and delicate scent, almost like I'm smelling morning dew. I pick up a little bit of white woods in the base. If you're buying this because it has fig in the name you're going to be disappointed, it's hardly present. But if you're looking for an ultra fresh and safe osmanthus fragrance for the high heat, go may dig it.
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Scent 6/10
Performance TBD

Caramel is a really tough note for me and it goes sideways on my skin, even from some well respected niche brands. I had a vintage bottle of black phantom that had such a tenacious caramel note, I sold the bottle and still have caramel PTSD from it. This caramel is done with a judicious hand and didn't make me start having flashbacks, which many others do. This isn't my type of scent but I respect the craftsmanship and build quality. Ingredients are good quality and unlike others from this scent family, it's not chemical screech.

Again, I don't really like this family of fragrance on myself, but this one is done tastefully, and still manages to have good sillage and longevity.
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Scent 7/10
Performance 8.5/10

A more rich and dense version of the original. Jasmine is toned down which is nice. They added some spices that really come out especially in the opening minutes. Drydown I detect some incense. Very good quality and lasts a long time on my frag eating skin. Reminds me more of Tauer L'Air Suisse Alpes more than the OG, both of which I have. If the price was the same or somewhat more expensive (say $75-100) and I needed a replacement for reflection man or Tauer, I would go this route.

I can get reflection for $100-140 on the secondary market, but Reflection 45 is still very expensive, about 3x that price or more. So in that case, I wouldn't pay triple. But, if you take away the price and just focus on the perfume, it's very good. Longevity is stellar and neither one has big projection.

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A worthy successor to the original. But I wouldn't pay more than 220 because I'm a cheapskate and I already have the original Reflection and Tauer L'Air Suisse Alpes.

Scent 8.5/10
Performance 8/10 (great longevity, average projection)

I tried this fully expecting to hate it. I was expecting synthetic strawberry screech but it's really not bad. More like a strawberry patch (is that a thing?) or strawberry bush, versus a sweet strawberry fruit. Beyond that, I get iris, vetiver and woods. It's not super complex but not bad. Unfortunately, it's extremely short lived and starts leaving my skin after 30-40 minutes, and it's completely gone in about an hour.

Scent 6.6/10
Performance 1/10

It's become trendy for folks here to jump on the bandwagon and bash this one. Pickle juice? It's actually violet, cypriol and cucumber. Why is Santal 33 their best seller worldwide? Everyone is dumb (except here of course) and wants to smell like pickles?

Another thing people say: It's weak. It's WEAK? People, STOP BUYING COUNTERFEIT BOTTLES or go see a doctor because it's not weak lol. I see so many people buying fake bottles on Ebay and Mercari. Genuine S33 is very, very potent, and lasts days with good sillage. If you don't like it that's fine, but it has become almost a weird peer pressure and snobbery thing to clown this fragrance.

I've worn it for years, I have received and still receive tons of compliments from complete strangers. Friends and family like it too, and I've decanted some for them. Not one single person has ever accused me of wearing pickle juice 😄 🥒. It's now extremely popular in the fragrance community, but still unique to the general public. I suppose it's getting the Dior Sauvage or Creed Aventus treatment and is a victim of it's own success. 🤷

P. S. If you're new to this fragrance and happen to read this review, don't let the lemmings influence you. Get a genuine (lots of fakes out there) decant directly from Le Labo, and wear it a few times. It's extremely popular for good reason; it smells good, and has excellent performance.

Noir 29 is a rich, luxe, beautiful fragrance that has the best tea note I've ever smelled in my life, and I generally hate tea. The herbs, cedar, musk, hay, slight sweetness, and tobacco perfectly compliment the black tea note. Posh and stout fragrance with good performance, that smells like pure class. It feels substantial like the vibe of a patch or leather fragrance, but without those notes. The color really does feel Noir and if I didn't see the color of the juice, I'd expect it to be dark black.

Extremely versatile, it feels at home formal, casual, day or night. I prefer it as a night out scent. I've only come across one other fragrance which is Murdock Black Tea the that smells like this.The Murdock is like a more diffusive cologne version of this one, that's got that same wonderful black tea note.

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Appealing to casual fragrance fans and niche aficionados alike. Smells deep, dark, expensive, and compliment factor is there if that's something you care about. This should be everyone's list to try and is bottle worthy IMO.

Scent 9/10
Performance 8/10

I've been testing this one for over a week. I love cherry, and it combined with Angel Share sounded good so I blind bought it after being recommended from a friend (thank you) and received some samples, including the original. I won't go talk much about the original, but I think it's slightly better than Tom Ford Lost Cherry, with the same longevity and better projection.

Cherry Gold is a deeper take on the cherry note with a little cinnamon and whiskey instead of rum. Leans 60/40 masculine on my skin. Also longevity is great even on my skin which eats perfume, even extraits. High compliment factor here and the scent aura sillage was even present after 7 hours out on the town. I carry a decant because I wear fragrance on skin (smells better) and I'm used to bad performance, but I didn't need it here. I can still easily defect it after 9 hours, which is astonishing on my skin.Tremendous value, performance and great smell. I had lost cherry and sold it with no regrets. This is the best cherry fragrance you can buy. 🍒

Scent 9/10
Performance 9/10

I blind smelled and the first sentence out of my mouth was "Oh boy, this one is funky"
I knew I was in for a wild ride.

And then I read the review below mine from @ciaobonefish, and it says it smells funky, and like horses. Further down, someone said it smells like goat cheese.These descriptions are 100% accurate.

It smells like horses, earthy Rocafort, leather, wet hay bales, and the outdoors. Very challenging initially. Same vibe (but not precisely the same smell) of Dior Leather Oud, and Beaufort Iron Duke, which smells like horse stables

As it's drying down on my skin, turns green, and adds saddle leather, ash and outdoors. If this sounds rough, that's because it is rough for a bit, but then things start getting more wearable. The base notes start to surface to organize the chaos into a cohesive fragrance.
It reminds me of vintage powerhouse fragrances. Same vibes (but not exactly the same) as Ted Lapidus but without carnation and less spicy, Dior Leather Oud, and Beaufort Iron Duke (horses).
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It's a wild ride (pun intended 🐴) of horses, green fields, leather, barns and horse stomped mud. It's got some layers and complexity. If you like this you'll like Iron Duke and Leather Oud, both of which are better a rendering imo. Never a dull moment with Sarah Baker.

Scent 6.5/10
Performance 7/10

Good fresh citrus green fragrance with a nice neroli note on a base of musk. Opening is what you'd expect, citrus, petigrain, etc. There's a few things that set this one apart. The mint serves to make the other ingredients pop, without standing out on its own. Next the heliotrope and vanilla serve to refine the white musk which is interesting. It's doesn't need to be sanded down because it's a white soapy musk, but it adds a further layer of smoothness.

I've tried and owned tons of Italian colonia's, and I appreciate that they've done something a little different to make it their own, and make it lean more towards how the French flair for perfumery, and how create they these types of fragrances. Neither is dosed into the stratosphere, but they're inserted almost incognito, for support.
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I've been testing quite a few from this house, and the blending from Patricia is masterful.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance TBD

Opening is earthy, minty patchouli drizzled over a dirty vintage leather. Shortly thereafter, some spices arrive. I'm struggling to identify what they're using but perhaps it's carnation, pink pepper or cinnamon?

Whatever they're using, it smells superb just like the opening. It's made ultra smooth with lavender and vanilla. I'm not really a patchouli connoisseur or regular wearer, but this is one of the best patchouli frags I've I've tried, and different from the rest.
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High Level blending and perfumery, this is one of my favorites from the house. I didn't expect to like this so much

Scent 8.8/10
Performance TBD

This is what I wanted Creed BDP to be. It's less herbal, more lavender, musk and musk forward. No corriander overdose which makes BDP go off the rails on my skin. This is a dandy fragrance. The lavender and other ingredients are not done in a way that makes it feel like a baby wipe like another popular dandy fragrance in HDP 1725.

There's enough pepper and clove to keep it fairly masculine. Looking at the notes I'd expect it to be more on the dirty side with civet and castoreum but it's blended and dosed well. Incense appears on my skin after an hour or so. This is great perfumery, and I'd consider a bottle of this one. It just keeps getting better and better on my skin as time goes by. Superbly blended and constructed. I understand the hype.
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Scent 9/10
Performance TBD

Fruity boozy opening is delightful. This pear with I think a touch of aldeydes that mellows into a soft musky fragrance. Mixes classical with modern perfumery. Although it's said to have lots of rose materials it doesn't strike me as a rose dominant fragrance.
It actually slightly reminds me of the discontinued Demeter Mr. Bubble but switch the banana for the musk, and make it with better quality materials, and make it smell much better and more complex.

Lots of musks get compared to other musks, but aside from that slight similarity to demeter, it's unique to everything else I've tried. It might be a bit feminine to some, but as a musk and soapy fragrance fiend, I find it unisex for me. Still testing, but so far I love it.
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Scent 8.5/10
Performance 5/10

Edit: after 30-60 minutes, it does go more feminine, and a little less interesting than the open and middle,but still fantastic.

"Hit me again Ike, and put some stank on it!"

This stuff walloped me right from the getgo.
Extremely sharp potent floral with tuberose, jasmine, ylang, marigold, galbanum and black currant. Smells great once it calms down and it's an excellent value if you love these florals as I do. Black Currants can be hit or miss as the natural variety tend to be urinous and animalic but here they're kept in check. I'd say they were using an aroma chemical for the currant but it's multi-dimensional, and I don't know if that's possible to catch the leaves and fruit with a chemical. Perhaps it's an accord? In any case, it's great perfumery and super potent.
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Scent 7/10
Performance 9/10

Immediately familiar since I own and love Gucci Eyes of the Tiger. Very similar, but not as strong or as buttery smooth. Still good and worth looking into because it's definitely not a 1x1 comparison. This starts out a fairly mundane cashmere fragrance but it gets better when the citrus burns off and the violet, and little iris, amber and labdanum arrive.

The cloves and pepper are not prominent to my nose but they give it just a touch of spice. A very well blended fragrance. Proportionally this is sound without anything being truly dominant. Overall it's very good easy to wear and like. If you like this one, try Gucci Tiger, which I prefer over this. Ymmv.
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Scent 7.5/10
Performance TBD

I swear this opens just like tequila on my skin. The oud and castoreum come on fast and it's animalic tendency reminds me of a more tame version of Histories De Parfums Petroleum, but not as much like sweaty civet, more leathery like castoreum. Styrax contributes to the leathery pelt effect.

After a short while the patch, artemesia , and rose show, followed quickly by the incense and corriander. Into the drydown and a little cedar finally shows it's face. Corriander still prominent along with incense and I feel like there might red peppers in it as well, it stays spicy. Overall it's good and I'd wear it out at night if it was gifted to me, but I don't know if I'd buy a full bottle. Would be good for a cool or cold night out, I'd say more semi formal to formal.
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Scent 7/10
Performance TBD

This one is really interesting. Opening smells like you shoved your face into a bowl of botanicals layered over fruit. Like a naturally made gin, but without the signature juniper. The herbs stay as it starts going even deeper green, reminiscent of of a just picked wild vegetation salad, garnished with mint. Underneath, I can smell the fruit undertones; fresh black currant, under a bed of oakmoss sprinkled with parsley and castoreum.

I really appreciate the artistic flair from this house. There's never a been there, done that moment. From my limited but growing experience with SB perfumes, they're all unique and no copies or retreads of other fragrances currently on the market. This one is on smells of good quality naturals with aroma chemicals used sparingly and almost undetectable. Blended well. Interesting and wearable, especially if you like the smell of natural plants and mint. Might be worth getting a bottle but I'm still testing
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Scent 8/10
Performance TBD

P. S. Accidentally layered it over Kilian Sacred Wood and it's an excellent combo that adds wood, drops the mint, and forms something that smells like coconut shell.

This does kinda remind me of Carlisle and I think they share some ingredient(s), perhaps iso e, tonka, and a similar amber accord. Like Carlisle, the opening is a bit strange on me but not as rough as the PDM, which sometimes reminds me of tequila my skin. Again, this is my skin chemistry, and I know I'm not crazy because my brother said the same thing when we tried it together for the first time years ago. But I think of Carlisle more of a patchouli fragrance, and Initio BB is more of a woody amber. I also think I smell vanilla in this but it doesn't go into the drydown.

Final Thoughts: Initio and PDM get shit on in the niche community but you cannot deny they smell good to the general populace, and they perform. I've never paid full retail for one of them, but I have paid between $90-$140 and I think they're worth that price. They're long lasting, easy to wear, don't smell cheap, and get positive feedback. That's important to people, especially those that don't have tons of fragrances to choose from.
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Scent 7.8/10
Performance 8.5/10

Really nice take on the black Afgano DNA, like an office friendly flanker. The coffee isn't too strong, the amber is great, and the sandalwood is ultra smooth. It's a good performer and a good value compared to black Afgano because the bottle is bigger, if you can find it discounted around 140 to 150. I'd definitely buy this over Gucci Intense Oud which is also great, but newer bottles have performance problems. This also smelled like it's got a pinch of tobacco in the early stages.
Is it as good as BA? That's debatable, I'd need to try them side by side. I'd say it's pretty close, but loses a point for not being original.
Reminds me of Armani Prive Cuir noir after wearing it more. That is an amazing fragrance, with terrible performance, so I'd still choose mystic experience.
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Scent 8.8/10
Performance 7.8/10

Wow this smells so good. I smelled it blind and didn't make the connection with hypnotic poison (does smell slightly like an exotic play doh) which is also an all time favorite women's perfume. This one feels 65/45 female, and unique to my nose. It's smells like a vanilla and orris pudding mixed with a really nice wine note. But the wine doesn't feel boozy per se, if you told me it was berrys or even strawberry I'd believe you. Hard to explain. The drydown has a doughy vanilla gourmand texture. Really nice

Opening is nice citrus and greens followed by a little spice and lavender in the mid. The drydown is musk and cedar but mostly a musk that is very soapy. This musk is dosed really high. Up close, it smells kinda synthetic but that's not a knock against it because most houses use synthetic musk due to IFRA and ethical reasons. However, in the air it smells soapy clean. Lasts a long time even on my perfume eating skin. I'd say roughly 8-10 hours which is double to triple what I usually get from fresh or soapy scents on skin. I imagine it may be easily detectable on clothing for 24 hours. If you like fresh and soapy clean scents with citrus top notes, you'll like this. If you're one of those people that constantly bitch about performance and you want a dumb reach fresh fragrance, you'll like this.
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Scent 8/10
Performance 8.5/10

Second impression: this is a deep, smoky, spicy vetiver fragrance. It's drydown is mostly about the vetiver, spices (clove) and a bit of cedar on the drydown. Extremely potent, and it's expensive, but it also smells really expensive. Definitely masculine. Smells like something a CEO or an industry tycoon would wear. I really love this but I don't love the price. However, you don't need to spray more than 2-3 times so it's not a terrible value proposition.

Scent 9/10
Performance 9/10

I agree with the reviewer below that this smells dewey. Almost like a fresh dewy bowl of fruit or candy. Excellent opening of pears and melons. If I smelled a fruit or candy like this I'd happily eat it. It smells gourmand on my skin.

The Jo Malone boutique sales rep said this is popular amongst men that come into the store. I'm not sure I believe her, but it's not a totally crazy notion, to each their own. This one just plain smells great and I'm sure some do, but I think I'd probably prefer it on a woman. Performance seems fleeting even after just 10-15 minutes on my perfume eating skin. Pretty much gone in 45 mins.

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If you love pear and melons, this is a must try IMO. An easy and edible perfume to love for fruit lovers, with a light floral drydown, but it will require carrying a decant with you to refresh.

Scent 8.8/10
Performance 1/10

This is a beautiful fresh cologne, particularly the opening. A burst of natural good quality citrus. I get the lemon, bergamot, and lemon peel. Spectacular if you like citrus. This just puts me in a good mood. It's quickly followed by neroli, a little rosemary and lavender.

The drydown is a soapy (ish) musk. There's a bit of petigrain in here too. In the same universe as Neroli Portofino and 4711. It smells really natural, but the downside of these natural ingredients is longevity just like Neroli Portofino. But you come to expect that to some extent.
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Final thoughts: A beautiful fragrance that is just as good as Tom Ford Neroli Portofino and performance is about the same.

Scent 8/10
Performance 3/10

Musk and aldehyde lover here with my favorites being Santana Maria Novella Melograno, Le Labo Musc 25,, Xerjoff Pikovaya Dama, and Pierre Gullimaine Le Musc & Le Peau,

This is a good one, in the same realm of MFK 724 but it's not nearly as potent, and doesn't lean as much into the clean laundry realm. It's a softer take with the florals being more gentle and less screechy, with the white musk featured prominently. As a adficionado of these types of fragrances, I think this one is great. Others have used adjectives like sparkling, clean linens, soapy, understated, classy, classic, etc, all of which I agree.

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I'd place this one somewhere in the top ten of white musks and aldeydes. I think it's definitely better than Nasomatto Silver Musk and Tom Ford White Suede which it's compared with, but falls short of the others I mentioned. However, I still think it's timeless, elegant, and one the best from the house of Chanel.

Scent 7.7/10
Performance 7/10

This one is pretty good, but not great. It feels substantial but performance is suprisingly moderate. There's no oud note listed but it's here, and everything is amped up (except longevity) by the use of eucalyptus which gives it a slight camphoric vibe and really helps it cut through the cold weather. I don't think this perfume should be used outside of cool/cold weather.

It reminds me of some of the Guerlain Ouds and a bit like Kilian's Arabian nights collection but not as potent or well done. I mainly get pepper, eucalyptus, oud accord, geranium,angelica and smokey gaiac. I think there's perhaps some incense or resins present as well. As I stated it's not bad, but I prefer Kilian's oud fragrances like perhaps pearl oud, incense oud, or musk oud over this for both smell and performance.

Scent 6/10
Performance 6/10

Smells really good, particularly the opening raspberry cassis combo mixed with nutmeg and elemi. The base notes hit the mark too with a variety of woods, musks, and a light touch of patchouli and amber.

I smelled this and thought to myself finally, a Bodicea that I like that is original (to my nose). I went about my day and in a couple hours it was pretty much gone. Bummer. Scent is great but performance sucks.

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Scent 8/10
Performance 3/10

I would have given up on this house but I get to try them for free, so I keep trying them, and I keep being mostly disappointed. They have a million fragrances and most of what I've tried has been either a high priced clone or not something I'd pay retail for. A lady friend suggested I smell this one so I did.

Eureka! A scent that hits the mark on scent and performance but unfortunately it's feminine. The opening is nice violet, citrus and roses, powdery, with nice base notes of iris and musk. I didn't get much vetiver but it's blended pretty well. However, this is again, similar to TT Casopea. I'm not sure who was inspired by who, but this one smells good and is worth it if you can find it at or around the price of Casopea (unlikely).

Smelled this a few years ago, thought it was good but I slept on it and ultimately ultimately I lost track of it in the sea of other fragrances available. Tried it again today by chance and decided to wear it out. I shouldn't have forgotten about it. It's a great fragrance with great performance.

I won't rehash what's already been said, but I will say this definitely has saffron and it comes out prominently on my skin. I'm not sure what Initio is using here but it doesn't read of of a lower grade safranal, or derivative. If they're using safraleine it's done pretty well. The booze is great and so is the tobacco. The hedione and vanilla round off most of the rough edges.

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I slept on this one but I shouldn't have. Great scent with performance through the roof good. For reference, I tested a 2023 and it was strong as hell. High complement factor.

Scent 9/10
Performance 9/10

I smelled this blind. Imagine if you crushed up those Flintstones chewable vitamins for kids (I ate them as a kid), mixed them with golden gummie bears, mixed that with florals, and then mixed them all up with soap. I'd guessed marigold and musk. But once I saw the notes the apple blossom made sense. It's an interesting dichotomy between minerals, tart apples, florals, and soap.


This may sound disgusting, but strangely I enjoy it and I definitely haven't smelled anything else remotely like this. I'm not sure I enjoy it enough to wear it myself and spend 350 or whatever retail is on this fragrance, but maybe I'd be game around 100. Full drydown and the florals die off after 5 hours, and you get another 5 hours of clean musk. Really strange, really unique, and really strong and long lasting. Not for everyone, but def worth trying imo. Leans fem but very interesting to me.
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Scent 7.5/10
Performance 9/10

This is a nice designer esq perfume but it's def not unisex guys. The comparison to Tuscan Leather is laughable, and same with Oud Wood. This smells nothing like either one of those. Very feminine. Drydown gets sweet with praline which I don't like on me. I could see this being fine on a woman that likes a very basic scent that smells like the perfume counter at a department store.
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Scent 5/10

A buddy of mine (thank you 💪) on this site gifted me a decant of the EDT and I thought it was stellar. I came across a bottle of the EDP and purchased it blind because I figured if the EDT is great, the EDP should be as good or better. They do share a some similarities, but I find the EDP has more dominant patchouli with smokey touches, along corriander, pepper, a little pine and juniper, in that order. As drys, I do get some more oakmoss, cedar and musk which I like.

I can remember the EDT being more airy, with a more prominent vanilla and smoothness. I liked it more than the EDP. I didn't wear it out because I didn't have much, but it seemed to project more. And there therein lies the second problem with the EDP. This stuff sits very close (4-6") from the skin in my estimation. I'm aware that EDP typically have lower projection, but the difference between the two on projection is different by a huge margin. I'm not obsessed with performance, but not being able to smell my own fragrance bothers me. All that said, I still like the fragrance, and longevity is okay. But I think I prefer the smell and projection of the EDT.
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Scent 7/10
Performance 5/10 (decent longevity, bad projection)

My first thought: for an "expressive" fragrance, this one sure is weak. It's basically a a linear amber skin scent. Which doesn't inherently make it bad, I actually kinda like it. My problem with this fragrance is two fold.
First, I have ambers in my collection that do this same thing, but much much better. I can name a dozen ambers that are vastly better. Second, there's a weird sourness to this one.

Final thoughts, it's fine but nothing earth shattering and performance (particularly projection) is not good. Spend a little more money and get Grand Soir, Coromandel, Gucci Eyes of the Tiger, or Ambre Sultan. If you're on a budget, Histories Ambre 114 can be found for the same price or less one the gray market or eBay, or check out CK Amber Euphoria Amber Gold which is much better.
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Scent 6/10
Performance 5/10

Tried this out today, and it strongly reminds me of something. Perhaps JHAG not a perfume, DS Durga I don't know what, or maybe Radio Bombay but spicier, and not as good. It accomplishes the paper vibe fairly well with sandalwood, ISO E and vetiver.

Projection is really close to skin as designed, and longevity is good from the ISO. I can't personally see buying this or wearing it beyond today because in my opinion, it's a pretty mudane experience overall. It's really linear, and there's no discernable transition from open to close. It you like this sort of thing (extremely minimalist) I'd suggest checking out Radio Bombay as it feels better made.

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Scent 5/10
Performance 6.5/10

Starts out pretty good, but the drydown turns into a holiday affair on my skin. The drydown of cinnamon, (clove?) amber reminds me of a fall candle. Lasts a while, projection is about an 1.5hr before it sits low on skin.
Overall it's not terrible but I'm pretty indifferent about it. I'd recommend Byredo Eleventh Hour if you're looking for a fall/winter holiday scent. It smells better at a fraction of the price.

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Scent 5/10
Performance 7/10

Love Penhaligon's, I've owned and tried many. Was stoked to find a vintage bottle of this, the very first release from the house, and the only one credited to William Penhaligon as the perfumer!

Extremely powerful old school florals and musks. Only fragrance I can recall that almost made me physically sick. Tried it several times (never outside my house) but I couldn't will myself I'm liking it. Absolutely unwearable for me even though the historical significance is super cool.
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Scent 1/10
Performance 8/10

This is what Tom Ford White Suede should have been. I had big bottle of TFWS and sold it after a few months because it became mundane, and it had performance problems (nobody could smell it and I couldn't smell it) even when sprayed heavily on skin.

This one is not a beast but performance is better. Performance aside, the scent itself is way better. A soft suede that is persistent but never shouts, sweetened with saffron, backed up by violet/florals. It's slightly powdery and creamy. Gorgeous stuff. May lean fem for some but I'm an adult male and I have no problem wearing it. Only animalic in the first couple minutes.
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Exceptional creamy powdery violet suede perfume; versatile enough to be worn in all weather. If you're considering Tom Ford White Suede, try this one before you buy.

Scent 9.5/10
Performance 5.5/10

The opening couple of minutes smell exactly like Aventus. After that it dries down to a medium spicy oakmoss and patchouli. It has little woody pencil shaving undercurrent. It has so so longevity & light projection sillage to my nose. It's nice, but full retail of 180 is way way overpriced imo. For that price you could get something else superior to this Even discounted on the gray market for around 80, I still wouldn't buy it.

In the end, it's got some different facets of Aventus, but to say they are not related is asinine. I'd say it is somewhere in the lower middle of the pack of these types of scents. I'd say it's not as good as MDCI Bleau Satin, Bond. com, Hacivat, or Morning chess. It's better than Tiziana Terenzi Orion, Mont Blanc Explorer, and Armaf CDNIM.

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Summary: a good option with some slight twists. If you can find a 100ml for around 40-60 bucks and you don't already have something in this category, it's worth checking out. But if I was on a budget, I'd try and find a cheap bottle of Hacivat.

Scent 6.5/10
Performance 3/10

I am an Acqua Di Parma nut, so I was super happy to get my hands on this discontinued gem of a fragrance. ADP uses the ancient Spugnatura (sea spong) method to extract citruses and I have owned so many I can pick them out of a lineup blind. They just feel different, and the quality is always there. This smells like it has mixed Colonia, Colonia Essenza, and Eau Sauvage together but with a key difference that separates it from the pack. First, the red pepper, and red pepper fruit are unique to this line. It's interesting and nice. Second, the drydown has a more prominent resin and wood feeling, but not heavy enough to impede it from being worn where it belongs, in the spring and scorching heat of the summer. Performance is really good for an EDC.

Overall great release and a real shame it's discontinued.

Friend sent me a decent and I smelled this blind..My initial impression in the opening 10 seconds was peach, but then it's started getting more tart but not sour. Oranges and perhaps bergamot, some vanilla. I love it when perfume is blended well like this one because it really creates something truly unique.

This was immediately reminiscent of good teenage memories. It reminded me of the smell of confections or bunt cakes at a theme park like Disneyland, Six Flags, or perhaps a carnival. Something from my past, very nostalgic. I looked at the note and comparison fragrances and coincidentally, I just smelled unknown pleasures for the first time a couple weeks ago. I didn't make the connection, but I think this smells way better than unknown pleasures. This scent is fun and nostalgic. I'm don't really wear gourmands, most are sweet and gross. But they did a great job not making this not too sweet, heavy, or smelling like I'm wearing an actual pastry. 🧡 🍰

Scent 8/10

I was harsh on this when a friend sent me a decant in 2021. At the time, it reminded me of skunky beer on my skin. But since that time I've, come full circle. This is a beautifully executed boozy sweet fragrance (I normally dislike sweet) that has amazing performance, which is not common in most modern perfumery.

In fact, it's almost too strong. I only need a couple sprays and it lasts all night, and I never get nose fatigue. I can smell it all night and the next morning. Just don't wear it in the high heat, or you might get sick. Like bourbon or cognac, it's best sipped, and best in cool temps. I wish they'd release Straight To Heaven with this kind of performance because I'd buy it immediately.

Scent 8.5/10
Performance 10/10

This is atrociously cheap and makes me appreciate the other coconut frags I have in my collection. It if you took a coconut air fresher, rotten fruit, plastic, and liquefied them in a blender, that's what it smells like.


The chemical fig mixed with an ultra cheap cedar smells like the off gassing of plastic.
The coconut smells exactly like car air freshener. It's so synthetic this feels carcinogenic, like it could give me endocrine problems or cancer. I threw it in the trash because I didn't even want to give it away to friends or family. 🗑️

Scent 1/10
Performance (washed it off)

I don't have much to add as others have done a good job describing this.one. Opening is bright citrus and prominent petigrain followed by some earthiness. It starts off really strong but loses a lot of steam in 15 minutes and remains a skin scent. I like this one and I'd consider a bottle around around 40% of retail.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance 5/10 (longevity isn't bad but poor projection after 30 minutes)

I was looking forward to trying this because I love musk but this is extremely simple and basic. The opening is a faint amber followed quickly by a very chemical smelling musk and ambergris. Feels more like a layering tool than a standalone fragrance. Slightly animalic and lasts a long time since I believe it's 100% chemical. I'm not anti aroma chems, but this feels unfinished. I could see myself using it as a fragrance booster but I wouldn't pay more than 40 bucks tops.

Scent 5.3/10
Performance 7.5/10

This is the absolute best version of smw fragrances you can get. The opening, the mid, the drydown, the ingredient quality, it's all better here than creed or the other 7 or 8 copies floating around out there. The citruses and impeccable, and the iris lavender and musk set it apart. Feels like it has violet giving it an ozonic quality.
I'd sell Silver Mountain Water and get this in a heartbeat.
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Scent 8.5/10
Performance 7/10

Very nice honey tobacco fragrance as advertised. Well made, classy, and relaxing. Smooth and not brash in any way. The opening is a delicious non animalic honey with coco, a tiny amount of anis, and perhaps a slight wheat facet. Shortly thereafter the tobacco arrives and it's also very smooth, and not damp or dank in any way. My first time wearing and I can't speak for performance, but seems solid so far. I don't really pick up any oud on my skin.

The drydown reminds me of TF Tobacco Vanille with added honey. Its well made and I like it, but I'm not compelled to grab a bottle. They had a 6.8oz for 570 I believe. Great fragrance if you're looking for a user friendly and well made tobacco scent. If you already have niche tobacco fragrances, you don't really need this one unless you're a Guerlain fanatic. I've worn tobacco vanille for a decade and I think it is a 10/10 (vintage formula). This losses a little bit of points in my book because it doesn't stand out far enough from TFTV, and isn't bringing anything super different to the table of high end tobacco fragrances.
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Scent 8/10
Performance TBD

Update: I could smell strong cacao from this in the shower 12 hours later, and it's still faintly present after the shower. Astonishing longevity 10/10

First impression so take it with a grain of salt. Trying this on at Sephora, I was expecting a green oakmoss chemical creation. I love real oakmoss in vintage fragrances pre IFRA regulations, and I don't mind chemical varieties. I even like to spike my green frags (Floris Elite in particular) and sometimes citruses with real oakmoss absolute. It smells great, and boosts performance. Contrary to IFRA, this will not kill you, but you should exercise restraint and be judicious with real oakmoss. You don't EVER want to put pure oakmoss directly your skin, and it can stain your clothes, so research safe useage.

Now, as others have pointed out, this isn't a terribly complex niche roller coaster ride, and it also doesn't contain any more than a drop of genuine oakmoss at best. My read on it is that it's a greenish citrus in the middle tier level of perfumery. It's not daring, but it doesn't smell bad or cheap, and feels reasonably well made. The opening is really good, and the citruses and petigrain is well done. It reminded of a more citrus and petigrain heavy version Atkinson's Posh on the Green. It's very enjoyable, and much better than the Atkinson's, but performance wasn't spectacular. I think this would make a great option in the heat, as long as you don't mind carrying a decant, and can find it discounted. I'd grab a bottle if ever see one under 50 bucks.

Scent 7/10
Performance 3/10

This is a great option for someone that wants a "do it all" swiss army knife tobacco fragrance. It covers nearly the entire spectrum, from moist and slightly skanky open, to a little smoke, to pipe tobacco in the mid, to dry leaf in the base. It may not appeal to people that love niche, but for the average person looking for one Tobacco that does everything, this is it. I think the addition of cypriol and incence is excellent in this composition, without being overdone. It's also easy to wear and won't be challenging like Andy Tauer Sundowner (my personal favorite), Akro Smoke, or Tobacco Oud. I can tell Amouage made this for the masses to enjoy which may disappoint Amouage purists. I fall somewhere in the middle, and appreciate this one a a Swiss army knife tobacco fragrance. Longevity is good but projection throw isn't the best. It's not daring beyond the opening few seconds, and just an easy to wear, well made to tobacco option.

Scent 7.9/10
Performance 7.5/10

I've been wearing TF Oud Wood for many years and have gone through multiple bottles of clones and the original. I currently have a 100ml 2020 batch and performance is the same as 2023. Believe it or not the vintage brown bottle didn't perform all that well either from what I remember, but was a little better than today's iteration.

I know the original like the back of my hand and NONE of the clones get it perfect. Don't bother with the "houses" like Dua or scentual obsession, they are overpriced IMO. You'd be better off getting Versace Oud Noir which is great, but slightly sweeter from the saffron.

I came across something by a company called Blackstone Sandalwood in a matte grey bottle at TJ Max for 15 bucks. This stuff smells around 80-85% close to my 2020 batch of Oud Wood. Performance isn't great but it's cheap so just carry a decant. I usually pump on about 15 sprays of the original and it always draws compliments if that's something that matters to you.

I literally never get tired of wearing Oud Wood and even though I've worn it a million times, it still blows me away. It really kicked off the western oud craze 15 years ago that is still going strong today.

Richard Herpin created a Hall of Fame fragrance in Oud Wood. I will always have a bottle of it in my collection and even though I have tons of fragrances, I still wear it all the time. Fits perfectly with a suit.

Masterpiece
Scent 10/10
Performance 4/10

I've been testing a factory 5 ml sample for the last couple of weeks and I've been enjoying it. However, I'm going to say something that may be considered blasphemous by some, I wish the rose was eliminated or not as prominent as it is.The opening of this fragrance smells like a typical middle eastern rose oud perfume. It actually reminds me strongly of uncompromising Sohan from penhaligon's but with a more tangy rose.

Anyway once you get past the opening and the rose dies off, you get down to what this perfume is all about. That is the musk, and to a lesser extent the woods which are the central players on my skin. This fragrance becomes a knockout but you have to wait a while for the good stuff to arrive. Cedar and musk makes a great base that I enjoy. This will not be for everyone as it feels very middle eastern and animalic.

I'm not sure it's something I'm compelled to own due to the high price, but it's arguably worth it, and I'm glad I got to try it.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance 8/10

Now THIS is the unique experience I look for with niche perfumery. This thing smells totally weird and I couldn't really describe it. The oud and sandalwood are dominant.

The opening smells exactly my my garage. I'm not talking gasoline either. My garage smells like stale musty air, dust, potting soil, lawn treatment chemicals, pesticides, old wood, car parts, coolant, brake dust, and clean motor oil.
Very interesting!

As it dries down it becomes more like smell of being in the woods or a woodshed. Almost like an antique store filled with vintage artifacts and aged wood. I'm not sure most noses will like this one, and it certainly won't drop any panties 😂. But this thing gets major points for being original and artistic merit. Kudos for this creation. It's not super functional, but people that appreciate artistic perfumery will like or possibly love this one. Great Job Mr. Pegg 🙌

Scent 8/10
Performance TBD

Very natural smelling, almost so much so that it smells like essential oils. The rose geranium and lemon morphs into lemon oil in the drydown. Like the stuff you put on wood. It's not bad but I wouldn't buy it. This might be someone's taste but not mine.

Scent 5/10
Performance TBD

The opening is lot's of bergamot, grapefruit and black currant. If you know real black currant, it can carry a little funk to it and it's slightly present here on my skin in the opening. In the mid everything settles and the pineapple becomes more prominent. It smells like realistic pineapple, and reminds me of the pineapple in Parle Moi Mile High.

The final drydown I start getting the patchouli and vetiver and it smells very familiar. Sauvage Elixir? Yes. Really reminds me of Elixir. I was hoping (I didn't look at the notes) it would be a stronger version of Aventus with more of that wonderful Creed musk accord which I love, which they have severely restricted in modern Aventus.

And for that reason, I didn't buy the bottle, and told the Creed people they can sell my bottle (I was on the list).to someone else who likes it more than me. It's not bad, and I like the mid, but the opening is just average at best and the drydown isn't unique. Performance was pretty good because patchouli tends to stick around on my skin. It's only worth around $160 IMO, not $545 retail.


Scent 7/10
Performance 7/10
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P.S. Don't believe what Creed says about it being limited - it's not as limited as they say.
I was originally told by Creed that there were only going to be 1000 bottles released in the United States.
My local creed received 52 bottles on Tuesday, and they were getting a second shipment of 28 (80 total). There's another place that sells Creed in my city as well.

Let's do some math. If each store is getting, let's be conservative and say they're getting 50 bottles each,
that would mean mean 10% of their stock is coming to the two stores in my city. I live in a medium size city. There's no way that my city is getting 10% of their stock, and places like Chicago, NYC, LA, Houston, etc are getting the same amount. There must be at least 500 places nationwide that sell Creed. They would run out of bottles in less than a day.

There's already bottles on eBay going for LESS THAN RETAIL. Don't buy a bottle thinking you're going to flip it for twice what you paid. Creed is full of shit and playing games to build hype.

This smells exactly like a laundromat, it's even got the metal smell of the old metal machines, it's only missing the dryer steam. It opens fizzy and has maybe 20% similarity to Kilian Kologne in the opening minutes. Also interesting, there's a cigarette smoke thing that comes and goes.

The bottle is strange like a capri sun juice box. Feels empty even when full. Anyway, it's an odd duck in the laundry genre, but I'm glad I have it and I wear it from time to time.

Scent 6/10
Performance 7/10

I've been wearing since late August to really understand the nuances before writing my opinion. At first blush, I immediately thought it was a copy or inspiration of Amouage Reflection Man. I've also worn Reflection for around a couple years, and side by side they are not as similar as I thought.

Firstly, the opening of this is different, especially side by side with reflection. They both share vanilla and perhaps coumarin, but Reflection is heavy on jasmine wherein L'Air Suisse Alpes is pine, something rubbery like western oud, wild thyme, and a mountain air accord. The mountain air air is pretty good but not photorealistic IMO it's like a rendering of it, but still really good. Mountain air is hard to describe, but it also feels like a different version of the steam accord created in Penhaligon's Sartorial which is meant to replicate a hot iron in a tailor shop. I enjoy it, but I can see why some people may not.

Beyond that it feels "rugged clean" with white amber and pine mastic feeling. In my minds eye, Reflection man is a clean shaven gentleman in a white linen shirt, and L'Air Suisse is Swiss mountaineer that has spent some time trekking in the snow and woods, finally arriving at the mountain base where the temperature has warmed up from the sun, but the day is still crisp. The snow is melting and turning into slush. He's still relatively clean but he carries the scent of his mountains on his person. Late drydown carries a soapy amber quality. I like both fragrances but I find myself reaching for the Tauer because it's just more interesting to me. I've also received compliments from strangers wearing it in public, so it's not so niche that it is off-putting to the average person. Great concept and really fun to wear.
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Scent 8.8/10
Performance 8/10

I'm not a floral lover but this one surprised me. It's beguiling because at first it starts off with a soft, delicate and beautiful orange blossom but then gets dirty and animalic but not over the top. From there it gets woody and powdery. I really like this one but I'll need to test it further to see if I can pull it off as a man.

This is a beautiful well mannered woman that's got a wild and playful spirit hidden away. She can be refined and charming but has a wild side, can drink guys under the table, and thinks cow tipping is fun. It's clean, dirty, fun and interesting. These are the kinds of strange fragrances I enjoy exploring.
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Scent 8.2/10
Performance TBD

This was probably one of my favorite Kerosene I tried today (I smelled about 10). I like the oud mixed with moderate smokey touched along with sandalwood and a slightly sweetened amber base. The drydown reminds me of TT Laudano Nero which I own and really enjoy wearing. That rich but slightly dirty amber is the same. I think LD is a bit more complex, but this one is easier to wear.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance 7.5/10

Similar to Blackmail with a couple key differences. The opening is raw tobacco. Reminds me of the raw barnyard esq tobacco open of Czech and Speake Cuba. It's good if you like your tobacco wet, earthy, skanky and unfiltered. However, it's not best in class like Tom Ford Tobacco Oud (new formula isn't as good as vintage)or the king of raw tobacco, Andy Tauer Sundowner.

After that it's orange , followed immediately by big time smoke.The smoke is incense combined with wood. Does not remind me of By the Fireplace which has prominent.
chestnut. Overall it's a solid scent with great performance. But I personally prefer Blackmail which is more about the rich amber with the smoke dialed down.

Scent 6.5/10
Performance 8/10

I love aquatic marine scents so I thought I'd like this and I was right. It's mainly aquatic and florals. Not groundbreaking but very easy to wear and enjoy in the heat. No calone bomb here, it felt pretty natural from what I remember. It's not my favorite aquatic marine scent, I generally lean towards the more hardcore life Sarah Baker Atlante. If you don't like white florals you might not like this one. Could have used a little seaweed absolute IMO and that's just my preference. I'd wear this one again. Performance was really good sticking to my skin for over 7 hours even after a shower.
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Scent 7/10
Performance 7.7/10

I smelled this blind not knowing what I was in for. Lemon bergamot bomb. I like citrus so I liked it, but I already have lots of citrus fragrance. Then the tea, honey, vanilla tonka kicked. It went more gourmand (which I generally don't gravitate towards) but this never got too sweet. Still maintaining the freshness it was overall pretty nice and lasted a long time. I don't recall caramel but it must have not been super dominant.

2nd impression: I wasn't over the moon about this one initially but I thought it was pretty good. Now it's a citrus amber, and about 1.5 hrs later the caramel is present which I don't like. Eh, it's okay but I would wouldn't buy it.

Scent 5/10
Performance 7/10

Beautiful fragrance which feels very high quality, like everything else from the house. Although it starts off leaning feminine, after 10 minutes it turns more unisex and by the drydown, it's firmly unisex imo. This is my first tuberose scent and I find this one refreshing, relaxing, inviting, with a very clean drydown. Excellent handmade craftsmanship in both fragrance, bottle, and coffret.

It's extremely polished and smooth for an indie, which is not always the case. Smells posh and expensive, but approachable and appropriate for casual settings. Strong performer, a little goes a long way. Retail prices are crazy high but when you smell these perfumes you can see why. The ingredient quality is another level above normal niche.

Scent 8.8/10
Performance 8.5/10

A very well mannered and reserved sandalwood fragrance. It's light on it's feet and can be worn in scorching heat without the traditional citrus top notes, and without becoming cloying. Perfect as an office scent. It's like a better made, better smelling version of Tam Dao EDT and a less synthetic JHAG sunny side up which is also a great fragrance.

But unlike the Tam Dao EDT, there are no obnoxious pencil shavings. Perfect for the office, it won't offend anyone and sits fairly close to the skin. Almost like a rung above a skin scent anti perfume. It's so smooth it gives the impression of finely sanded, soft sandalwood. The only knock on it in my book is that it's doesn't take any chances and doesn't carry a ton of character.
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TLDR: To use a car analogy, this is like the Toyota Camry of the fragrance world. It's not exactly setting the world on fire with heart pounding, adrenaline soaked performance. But it's well made, practical, easy to wear, and won't break down and leave you stranded on the side of the road. You simply can't go wrong wearing this but you also aren't going to be blown away with complexity or artistry.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance 5/10

I smelled this blind and now looking at the notes, I shouldn't like this. Pear and chestnut sounds awful. But, this is the best smelling woman's perfume I've smelled in a long time, and I smell hundreds of fragrances. Gorgeous, and a must try for women imo.
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This will make your eyes 👀 roll back in your head it smells so damn good!

Scent 10/10

I'm testing a sample given to me by a kind Bond SA who I know. I'm a fan of the house and I've owned many vintage and modern, but this one is a snooze fest. It starts off camphoris which I assume is the patchouli. The cinnamon is there but it's not a very good cinnamon imo like I've had in other niche perfumes. After that, it starts getting warmer, a little sweeter, and the honey shows up. The honey is good but not top notch, as with the cinnamon, I've smelled better niche honey notes.

That's pretty much it. An unremarkable and forgettable experience. If you notice the notes on this one are the same as Dubai Diamond in Jet and Crystal. As I said I'm a fan of this house but this but this just feels lazy. It's not bad, I wouldn't throw the bottle away, but I have no interest in acquiring it. On the plus side, the bottle is beautiful. If you're looking for a holiday gift for a woman, and want a newer release, I suggest New York flowers which smells great. Longevity on my skin is around 6 hours.

Scent 5/10
Performance 6.5/10

I'm testing a sample given to me by a kind Bond SA who I know. I'm a fan of the house and I've owned many vintage and modern, but this one is a snooze fest. It starts off camphoris which I assume is the patchouli. The cinnamon is there but it's not a very good cinnamon imo like I've had in other niche perfumes. After that, it starts getting warmer, a little sweeter, and the honey shows up. The honey is good but not top notch, as with the cinnamon, I've smelled better niche honey notes.

That's pretty much it. An unremarkable and forgettable experience. If you notice the notes on this one are the same as Dubai Diamond in Jet and Crystal. As I said I'm a fan of this house, I but this but this just feels lazy. It's not bad, I wouldn't throw the bottle away, but I have no interest in acquiring it. On the plus side, the bottle is beautiful. If you're looking for a holiday gift for a woman, and want a newer release, I suggest New York flowers which smells great. Longevity on my skin is over 6 hours.

Scent 5/10
Performance 6.5/10

This is weird because on paper it smells like a crisp spring day, walking through a field of vegetation. On my skin, it's cardamom and anise, followed by a clean soapy amber after a couple hours. Interesting and smells good, with decent performance for a Jo Malone. I'm not convinced I need a full bottle but if I see one for cheap I'd probably get it.

Scent 7.3/10
Performance 7/10

I never got to try the original because I could never find it, and hearing some people being less than impressed with this formula, I never bothered to seek out a sample. I was out and about shopping when I came across a bottle and decided to give it a go. I detect some spices that are not in the notes listed which surprised me. But below those spices lay the wonderful vanilla and something that smells like pie crust. I also get the milk note which is cool.

I can count the amount of gourmand scents I like on one hand, I don't really wear them - too sweet. But I don't find this as sweet or as heavy as I'd imagined. But make no mistake, this stuff is very long lasting with a continuous scent wake from my skin for hours and hours. Excellent performance and smells like great quality.

I think if you like things along the lines of Givenchy Pi, you'll like this one. I have a vintage bottle of Pi which I love, and this honestly smells better, is better quality, and much much stronger. Not exactly the same as Pi, but same vibe. It does lean slightly feminine, but it's still an extremely well made and potent perfume.

Scent 8.5/10
Performance 8.5/10

Sometimes I struggle with pineapple prominent scents like I struggle with pineapple on my pizza. On pizza, it overwhelms everything else, and I mostly taste the sweet fruit over the savory ingredients. With Mile High, it hangs around for a long time but never completely dominates it beyond the opening. It's a good rendering too, it smells exactly like fresh pineapple.

Immortelle is one of my favorite notes and it's great here. It gives a staw like smell in this, and also the smell of beach sand. The immortelle also dries out the juicy fresh pineapple, giving it nice balance, and not letting it become like wearing Dole pineapple juice.

Summary: Finally a pineapple scent that is not compared to Aventus which a nice change for me. I've tried 5 or 6 from Parle Moi and own 2 bottles, and they're all pretty well made.This one grows on me the more I wear it. Michel Almairac once again puts out a competent and well constructed composition. Although Mile High 38 supposedly contains 38 notes or ingredients, it doesn't feel terribly complex - but it's still pretty good.

Scent 7.6/10
Performance 8/10

Very well built perfume with good ingredient quality and blending. What's interesting is it's unique, but at the same time it's not. Jazz Club, Blvgari Black, and Vanille Havane? Sure it shares some notes with those, but saying they are similar is like saying everyone with blonde hair looks the same. But that's what we do here, we try and find something to compare it with.

If you put a gun to my head I'd say it probably shares the most characteristics with Atkinson's Oud Save The King, and perhaps Penhaligon's Blazing Sam. I think it's better than the Atkinson's, but not as good as the Penhaligon's.
So yes, the relation with many scents are there, but it's not really that close to any of them, hence my feelings of being unique but also familiar.

The sweetness jumps out but it's balanced out with the coffee, tobacco, leather. The booze is there too along with a smidge of tea, some vanilla and wood round things out. I think it's a good perfume but it doesn't jump out as being a top notch tobacco, leather, booze or wood. It's almost too balanced and proportional to really stand out or excel in any particular genre. Don't get me wrong, this is a really good perfume, but it's not exceptional IMO.

Scent 7.4/10
Performance TBD

This is a very enigmatic take on an island scent. The notes here are incomplete, there's saline, minerals and I tiny bit of citrus up top.This one is interesting because it's built around non traditional beach notes of myrrh, incense, and musk. To my nose there's some wood and amber in here too. Blended with the salty minerals, it does give abstract island coast vibe. It's a musky, creamy, amber, with a bit of an island vibe, but not a tropical scent with traditional notes like coconut, tiare, myrtle,.etc.
This has been discontinued and impossible to find, and they should bring it back imo. The feeling this gives me is like being lathered up on a pirate ship⚓ Cool perfumery and a very outside the box take on an island fragrance.
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Scent 8/10
Performance 8/10

Looking at the comparisons I see that number one is Parisian Musk by Matier Premier. I guess I can kinda see the similarities but it's a stretch. I actually consider this a woodier version of Prada Cargo De Nuit which is an amazing find because that fragrance is discontinued and has completely disappeared from everywhere.

I remember immediately liking the smooth white woods this has. It's synthetic no doubt but it's an excellent use of these materials. And because it's synthetic, it performs very well especially in the longevity department. It's essentially a smooth woody sandalwood with tonka and musks. There's some violet the surfaces and sticks around for a while but it's not overpowering and it fades leaving the clean woody base. A long lasting and simple musky, sandalwood. Good for almost an situation and not too heavy so it's very versatile.

Scent 8.5/10
Performance 8/10

I was excited to finally try this as I've nearly blind bought it once or twice. The fragrance presentation is a beautiful all white bottle and cap. I would have preferred a heavier cap but it's not light either and doesn't feel cheap.
This opens as an airy white amber. This opening reminds me of Gucci Eyes Of The Tiger which I own and am very familiar with, but this has an alcohol blast and feels very synthetic. It also doesn't carry that perfect tonka that is in the Gucci. It stays a white amber until the oud shows up. The oud here is also synthetic (obviously at this price point) and smells synthetic and kinda weird. It's not barnyard or animalic, it's hard to describe, but I don't think it smells particularly good. Usually for me to consider a fragrance it needs to be interesting, unique, or just plain smell good. Ideally, I'll get all three of these in one fragrance. But this misses on all three and feels very average.

Scent 5/10
Performance 6/10

I was disappointed in Myrrhe 55 when it came out, but Le Labo came correct with this release. This one really surprised me because it smells like an Italian Colonia but with stellar performance. I'd even venture to say that if you don't like Italian style colognes you will hate this fragrance. This smells like something Acqua Di Parma would release, but more concentrated. It opens with a BRIGHT, heavenly blast of citruses, followed quickly by neroli. The lavender doesn't surface right away and when it does, it's not powerful, but soapy clean. They didn't use a heavy hand with the lavender here. The drydown smells like a like a high quality soap along and lines of Colonia Essenza but it lasts forever. I washed my hands and took a shower and I can still smell it almost 10 hours later. I picture guy on Lake Como wearing khaki shorts, and a white dress shirt. Very soapy and clean, and perfect for the heat.I like it strongly, but I already have a dozen or so soapy fragrances, so I won't be purchasing unless I come across a nice deal.

Scent 9/10
Performance 8/10

It's a green with some very nice Italian esque citruses, and and a prominent undertone of something very masculine, slightly dirty and ashy. Although it smells nothing like TDH, this masculine bite reminds me of the vibe of flint and vetiver in TDH. This is a great fragrance and I got a legit 8 to 9 hours on my skin. My skin usually drinks fragrance, and most of the time only highly synthetic fragrances last this long on my skin. The kicker is this doesn't smell synthetic. Leans heavily masculine IMO. Great release and a fair price from a great Italian house.

Scent 8.7/10
Performance 8/10

I'm a HUGE Acqua Di Parma fan and I was pumped when I saw the bottle at a local store. It was in the normal Signatures Of The Sun presentation. I guess it's no longer a Harrods exclusive as I was not at Harrods. Anyway, I sprayed it on expecting magic but what I got was a barely present orange blossom , saffron, corriander, and weak citruses. It's not bad, but it feels like a cologne water (even lower than an eau de cologne) concentration.
It was completely gone from my skin very quickly unless I buried my nose in. I understand that ADP has some scents with terrible longevity like Arancia Di Capri, Bergamotto Di Calabria, and Signatures Of The Sun Yuzu which I own. But paying full retail for something this faint is ludicrous.
If I buy this eventually, I will only buy a 6 ounce bottle like I did with Bergamotto and Yuzu because I will need to refresh a ton. And like the fragrances I just mentioned, I will only pay 20-30% of retail.

Scent 7/10
Performance 2/10

First impression: Holy smokes this smells great.
I normally hate cloves and I expected not to like this but they're perfectly balanced. I am a sucker for both rum and bitter orange, and they blend perfectly with the spicy clove, woods and vanilla. I can sense the resins and I find the musk to not be the clean variety. One thing I notice about this musk on my skin is that it smells like real deer musk although it is probably an accord.

Excellent perfumery!
Scent 9.4/10
Performance TBD

This one is infinitely better than the previous version of LDBS Special Blend. That one had a cheesey raunchy oud that absolutely ruined it because it lasted for the entire duration of the fragrance. This one, is much easier to stomach. It's still got oud and it's slightly funky, but not that bad. I think this will be a better option for most women looking for an oud scent that westerners can actually wear in public without anxiety.

The amber isn't prominent and it doesn't read as an amber centric fragrance on my skin.
The marshmallows and orange blossom are pillow soft just as the original, and that softness will make the oud palatable for some. However, if you're new to oud, I still would definitely not blind buy this one. Sample first.


Scent 6.8/10
Performance TBD

The opening smells very close to hooka tobacco. It's a smokey hooka flavored with apples. Probably the best hooka shisha I've smelled in perfumery to date. Later, I get vanilla laced with spices like perhaps nutmeg and cinnamon. I don't detect cloves but it could be doses subtilty or blended well. However, like someone below me mentioned, the middle stage turns into one of those fall season Yankee candles.

Although not listed in the notes, there's a coffee latte thing that manifests on my skin in the drydown along with caramel. It's not the same caramel and coffee in Black Phantom, and not Turkish coffee like in Intoxicated. It's lighter and balanced pretty well with the caramel. Caramel is something I typically hate, but it's not strong here at all like it was in my vintage bottle of black phantom. Overall a very nice scent reminiscent of shisha and Autumn 🍁

Scent 7.9/10
Performance: TBD (currently testing)

P. S. Nothing like Angels Share or Apple Brandy to my nose. This is a unique fragrance.

If you're buying this for vanilla you will be very disappointed. The note tree is completely wrong and misleading. This is a patchouli fragrance through and through. It does have some dry vanilla but mainly patchouli which is smokey and has cacao facets. The vanilla is there to help lighten it up. It reminds me of Oriza L. LeGrand Horizon but not nearly as complex or good. If you haven't tried Horizon, then think about Dior Patchouli Imperial but Deep Dark Vanilla is not as strong or as good as Dior PI, and that will get you to this fragrance.

It's not bad, but there's better patchouli fragrances out there from brands like Oriza L. Legrand, Dior, Jovoy, SL, etc.

Scent 6.7/10
Performance 7/10

There's no association with Amber Kiso which is a work of wearable art imo. This is simply smoked leather. I wore at a standalone scent and not a booster. As a leather fragrance on it's own, it's below average. I love this brand and the artistry of the proprietor and perfumer DSM, but this one is a miss IMO.

Gucci Guilty Absolute, Tuscan Leather, Clive Christian C, or Amber Kiso are all superior to this.

Scent 4/10
Performance 7/10

I wore this today and it immediately reminded me of Rockaway Beach. The same framework but instead of an ocean, this is a freshwater swimming hole or lake. It doesn't smell like petrichor (fresh rain, rain in the air), mist, or fog. It's hard to explain but if you've spent time near lakes or on boats in lakes, you'll know this opening. Really interesting freshwater vibe.

Oddly, it retains a touch of salt (10% from Rockaway Beach which is extremely salty, but the seaweed and the suntan lotion is gone. It's been replaced with florals and a prominent violet that surfaces in the mid, which lasts a surprisingly long time (about an hour). I don't like this part much.

The final drydown is vetiver and cedar which comes out around after about an hour and 15 minutes. Great drydown. Overall I like the fragrance, but I'm not sure I'm drawn to purchase, especially at niche prices. I prefer Rockaway Beach but this one is interesting and enjoyable for the most part, I just hate the florals in the mid. Interesting scent and art from the house of DS Durga.

Scent 6.7/10
Performance 6.5/10

Normally I don't start a review by talking about the longevity but it's really remarkable. I put this on 12 hours ago and have showered and it's just now starting to fade from my skin. I believe the first batch of any new perfume is the best and strongest, so if you like this one keep that in mind.

The opening suprisingly reminded me of Andy Tauer L'Air Des Alpes Suisse. Perhaps it's the bergamot, vanilla, and the green notes from the cardamom, I'm not sure, but I wasn't expecting that. After about 5-10 minutes it goes into even more vanilla. It feels like a good quality vanilla mixed with cardamom, cinnamon, woody notes (perhaps iso e?) and perhaps a musk and ambrox. It's a dusty dry, vanilla spiced up with with cardamom and cinnamon. The cinnamon isn't super prominent, but it's there lifting the vanilla. I wouldn't have guessed orange blossom but it does a a smooth quality and I find orange blossom an incredibly smooth and relaxing.

Overall a great fragrance and a very strong offering that lasts and lasts and lasts.

Scent 8/10
Performance 9.5/10

This is a clean white musky molecule (synthetic) type scent that literally smells like clean skin. I get lots of ambrette with some white woods, ambrox, tonka and a soapy atmospheric quality that I gravitate towards. It has the same vibe as Another 13 although the scent itself is vastly different.
Unfortunately, I'm not getting any of the mineral qualities mentioned in the brand copy about ships at sea. Overall a clean soapy musky atmospheric scent that smells like your skin but better. Almost like just showered in an expensive hotel.

Interestingly, this probably reminds me the most of the drydown of Pengaligon's Lord George. I love wearing this kind of thing to the office or anywhere I want to smell crisp, clean, masculine and professional. They mix well with my chemistry and I get tons of positive feedback. To my dismay, it is IMPOSSIBLE to find a bottle of of this stuff! I've only once seen a full bottle of this and I've literally been looking for 3 years. I hope Prada brings this back into production. If anyone has a bottle in the United States for sale, please message me. Until then, I suppose I'll need to try Luna Rosa Black.

TL;DR Soapy clean expensive hotel and linens. Easy to love, impossible to find.

Scent 9/10
Performance 7.5/10

This is Christopher Street renamed. I don't know if this is true, but I heard that they were threatened with a lawsuit and sent a cease and desist from another house with the same fragrance name.

First impression on skin. I normally hate caramel and often coffee but it's really nice here. It's also strong, especially the first hour. Big big projection for the first 20-30 minutes. Lots of vanilla, lots of caramel, and a really nice cappuccino. In fact, the cappuccino is my favorite part of the experience. I get some amber but not any woods. Leans too fem for me to wear, but my mother loves it.

Scent 7/10

I love niche aquatic and marine fragrances. Some of my favorites are Sarah Baker Atlante, DS Durga Rockaway Beach, Andy Tauer Phtaloblue, Acqua di Sale , Creed Erolfa, Les Indemodables Ambre Supreme. I love real ambergris, algae, and seaweed absolute. This one however, I feel indifferent. It's not bad, but not anything that excites me, and I am generally a fan of A.G. creations.

Here we have MASSIVE doses of ambrocenide, ambroxan, and several other aroma chemicals dosed more moderately, which lends to the legendary performance of older batches. I think it's been reformuated and toned down. I'm told by perfumer friends it's a minor miracle and surely took months or years of trial and error just to create a stable formula that also projects using these mega doses.

To me, this smells like a 90's style synthetic aquatic marine. I'm not averse to synthetics like calone and ambrox but this feels like too much. Give me at least some naturals; white or gray ambergris, and real seaweed absolute. I sold my bottle after testing periodically over the course of a couple of months.
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Just wasn't for me, but I respect the art and hard work that went into this.

Scent 5/10
Performance (new batch) 7.5/10

🍋 Opens up a bomb of citron and litsea, with a heavy dose of green, earthy, leather esq oakmoss. I get what I perceive as some tobacco leaf, and also pine in the base. I don't detect any transitions, so I judge it as linear. Because of the high oakmoss content, it has a vintage feel. Beeswax does not appear for at least an hour to soften it up..For that reason, this will not appeal (at least initially) to new, inexperienced, or wimp noses. I think you need to be of a certain character, confidence, and experience, to appreciate and pull this one off.

I don't consider it challenging, but
my friends that are used to used to designer citrus fragrances, RUN from this stuff. Citron is the shotcaller of all citruses and some won't like pungent nature. Also, If you don't like oakmoss, you can safely skip this one. Smells natural and also substantial for a cologne "extrait" whatever the hell that means. My bottle smells strong like bull for the first couple hours.

Overall a good offering for afficionados. It's pungent and bit brash initially, before calming down and purring.

Scent 7.5/10
Overall Performance 7.5/10

Outstanding leather perfume if you like Tuscan Leather sort of vibe. Rich with animalic nuances and tobacco make this a home run. A top 5 all time leather for me with GGA and Tom Ford TL.The comparison to Godolphin is laughable as that one has a god awful fruity note.

I find the house wildly overpriced but this is one of the few that are excellent.
Scent 9/10

I had such a weird scent memory when I first smelled this. This smells exactly like a leather goods shop that my dad and I would always stop by whenever we took a day trip to Tijuana. The leather is slightly raw, as perhaps the curing process was shorter. It doesn't smell dirty, but there's definitely a musk in this formula.

The leather has absorbed some of the smells of the open air shop and some of it has been out and exposed to the hot sun. After that, it gets sweeter and loses that vibe. The olibanum gives it a lemony almost citrus feeling mixed with incense. Incense and sandalwood take over at that point. It's not my favorite leather in the world (GGA) or my 2nd (Clive Christian C Oudh Intense) or my 3rd (Tuscan Leather), but I think it's an interesting offering that I'd definitely wear. Points for originality and reminding me of my childhood.

Scent 7/10
Performance TBD

I tried this at launch and was given a free sample but forgot to record my thoughts. It wasn't until a friend asked me about it that I remembered it and decided to test again on skin. Now I know why I forgot about it.

On clean skin, it starts off almost like camphoric prunes and a little bit of raisins mixed with an average amber type accord. It stays that way for 15 minutes before the plum comes out. There's not much vanilla. The plum sticks around along with the weird camphor thing. Smells synthetic. This is not a top notch plum in my book.

Summary: it's about average. Smells synthetic to my nose. I'm not an aroma chemical hater, but it doesn't feel special, unique (in a good way) charming, or interesting.

Scent 5/10
Performance TBD

This fragrance has so many facets and is so complex that I could take 10 different people and they'd describe it 10 different ways. I have an older bottle of this beauty. It's citrus, it's patchouli, cacao, sandalwood, florals, spices (anise is prominent) it's musky. It's everything you could ever want in one perfume.

There's something about it, that is just so pure, smooth, relaxing, refined, and classy without trying too hard. This fragrance has been copied and spun off a million times by a million houses. To me, this is the quintessential French gentleman's fragrance.

What gives it that distinct French flair and is an underrated but key linchpin here, is the musk. It's something that is only found in classic French perfumery, and gives it a little sweet, tangy and slightly vinegar twang.I'd swear it's a pheromone type ingredient and you don't smell it in 99% of modern releases.

Classy, classic, and brilliant perfumery that has been often replicated, but never quite matched. New bottles I'm told have sadly lost the magic so I will cherish my vintage bottle and hopefully find another for a fair price because it's a masterpiece.
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Scent 10/10
Performance 6/10

This is basically smoked wood. I get mostly guaiac wood and maybe a little tea and jasmine in the background. It's decent, but I'm not getting much complexity or transition. It's smokey and if I strain I can detect some Douglas Fir. Much later on skin it's a generic amber. Overall it's fine, but 100% not worth the asking price or anything close. I think Crab Apple and to a lesser extent, Town and Country are better offerings in the crown collection.

Scent 5.5/10
Longevity 7.5/10

@socialassasin perfectly sums up my feelings on this release.
A cross between Eben Fume and Bois Marocaian were the very first words that came out of my mouth when I tried it on skin at the Tom Ford counter today.This suffers from a SERIOUS case of been there, done that syndrome.

Is it good? Sure. The myrrh is there and displayed pretty well too. But there's nothing about this that gets me excited and motivated to purchase. It feels like a retread. And because of that, it loses points, and my interest. I'll try it again when the weather cools off in Texas but I wasn't impressed with my first test drive.


Scent 6.5/10
Performance 7/10

Smells synthetic and not well made. I get citrus on top of green apple and peach. Thankfully it's not super sweet or feminine which some fruity perfumes turn into on my skin. It reminds me of something I've tried, but I can't quite place it. Overall it doesn't feel like a niche scent from a quality or artistic standpoint. I don't know anything about this house so maybe it's not supposed to, I have no idea. Feels like something off the shelf from IFF or some other manufacturer.

Scent 2/10

Smells like slightly turned... pulp. But it retaints a bit of freshness so it doesn't actually smell rotten fruit irl. It's not bad, leans too feminine for me to consider wearing. Might be nice on a woman.

Scent 5.5/10

I love ELDO but this one is super dull. The opening is slightly interesting, but it goes downhill fast. Pepper, some green notes, pepper, some generic watery notes, pepper, and generic woods. Bottle is cool, idea is cool, but this one is uninspired. I wore it a few times and sold it.

Scent 4/10
Performance 5/10

I've been testing this one through the afternoon and wore it out this evening. I get the comparison to Molecule 01 and Orto Parisi Seminalis but I actually like this one more than both. It's heavier than Molecule 01, and woodier and muskier than Seminalis.
The only drawback is all three of these are synthetic, but regardless it just plain smells good if you're a musk lover.

I mainly get iris, musk, tonka and blonde woods in that order. The blonde woods comes off like a smooth sandalwood. And since it's probably 95%+ synthetic, it lasts a long time. This is one of the better purely synthetic fragrances I've tried with Another 13 taking the top spot. I'd imagine it could also serve as a performance booster and base for layering if you're into that.

Scent 8/10
Performance 7.5/10

I blind bought this one because I knew it was discontinued and I got an incredible price. I honestly wasn't expecting to like it much because I'd heard some less than great impressions of it. But, I really like it and it scratches that coconut suntan lotion itch. It reminds me Arquiste Sydney Rock Pool but it's a little sweeter and performs better. There's some Tom Ford Soleil Blanc here too.

I was surprised how long it stuck to my skin in the high heat. I got somewhere around 8 hours and my skin eats fragrance. Guerlain is such a great house, and several from the Allegoria line punch well about their price point on the secondary market.

If you can find it reasonably priced, it bests things like Beach Walk, Soleil Blanc EDT, and Sydney Rock Pool, and can hang with higher end stuff like Virgin Island Water, Soleil Blanc EDP, and Malibu Party In The Bay, although this has much more coconut than these on my skin. If you don't like coconut, you won't like this one. Maybe I'm sensitive to coconut, but I find my bottle to be very strong so I've got to be careful with the trigger. I don't go noseblind to this. YMMV.

Scent 8/10 🥥
Performance 8/10

This is a very interesting creation by Roucel. It took me a month or so of periodic wearing to kinda wrap my head around it and write a review. It's the antithesis of Musc Ravageur.
Musc Ravageur is warm and I find this cold. It's not aloof, you can tell it's finely crafted and executed. It feels very astute and professional.

In the opening it's a fizzy citrus tamarind and iris which I love, followed up by a touch of honeysuckle. There's a sprinkle of patchouli and atlas cedar. But the all star players in my opinion are the iris, vetiver and musk. It's very clean and smooth. Feels real well made and thought out and the whole thing is ultra refined. There's a passing resemblance to DH but Parisian Musk and Lumiere are very different IMO. There's no creaminess here, but there's some waxiness from the iris and a little earthiness from vetiver. The Blue color of the juice is very fitting to the vibe this gives me. 💠🧊

If you're looking for a "cold" musk, that can be worn in the scorching heat, cold, office, or pretty much anywhere, this is it.

There are certain fragrances that are designed to get you to buy them right away at the retail counter and this is one of those. The opening is, as others below me have said, stupendous. 🤤

The citrus, spices and coriander really do trigger trigger dopamine receptors. BUT, I encourage you to get a sample and test it because you might find the rest of the experience (as I do) fairly unremarkable. I still think this is a great perfume as long as I keep spraying myself with it. But I can't keep this up forever at this price point.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance 2/10

Wanted to try this for a very long time but I couldn't never find a reasonablely price bottle until 3-4 weeks ago and I blind bought it.
I liked this one initially but after wearing it for a couple days I decided it wasn't worth keeping. Smells of good quality as do others I've tried from the house, but was a little too old school for me and never got my blood flowing much. Still, it's a pleasant and easy to wear mint and lavender cologne 🪻

Scent 6/10
Performance 5/10

I'm revisiting this after originally trying it 2 years ago and having an unpleasant experience with it initially in the high heat. This really fantastic musk that has a clean but eeeever so slightly dirty sexiness to it. The aldeydes make it very airy and although you are initially beguiled into thinking the performance isn't good, it gets stronger as it blooms and grows on skin. It's still not a beast but it's no slouch either. It also gets sweeter but never too sweet.

I recommend being extremely cautious with this in high heat because it can get animalic in heat with sweat. I love musk and I try, buy, and wear a lot of them, and this is top notch. Yes it's great and I want a bottle, but $515 plus tax for a 100ml is madness. I just can't wrap my head around the price.
But I ended up buying a discounted bottle because it's that damn good. My all time favorite white musk 🤍

Scent 10/10
Performance 7.8/10 (sneaky longevity and strength)

P. S. I have Zoologist Musk Deer (excellent fragrance) but I find it very different than Musc 25. Kiels is great too, but it's much closer to Aldehyde 44.

P. S.S. My cat loves this stuff and tries to lick it from my skin 😺

My search for the very best incense fragrances led me to Casbah and away from CDG Avignon. Both are ancient church and cold smoke fragrances, but I find Casbah has more personality. There's a distinct green vein along with some iris and tobacco running through Casbah which I prefer over the CDG. Although both are pretty much photorealistic, I find the spiciness and extra facets of this better on my skin.

It's also worth mentioning performance is pretty good on this. I wore it in the evening and when I woke up in the morning I could still smell it on my skin. CDG you have to spray much more to get it perform. Also, you get a 100ml of Casbah vs 50ml of CDG. I still like the CDG, but found it redundant so I sold it. All and all, this, and ELDO Rein, are probably my favorites niche incense fragrances.

This reminds me of a hybrid of Le Labo Mousse De Chene and perhaps Labdanum 18 or Musc 25. It's pretty good. Le Labo likes to throw curve balls often make the scent different than the focus note, in this case myrrh. Other notes like musk and a patchouli similar to the one in mousse de chene are more at the forefront here. It's nice but I'm not drawn to buy it at the massive price of city exclusive markup.

The notes definitely don't match what I'm getting from this which is an exceptional saffron scent with faintest hint of cherry tobacco and a smooth gourmand drydown. If this has ambergris and oud then this is high level blending or dosed low. Smells extremely modern, and gets a bit sweeter in the drydown. Leans slightly 60/40 feminine.
Really delicious, interesting, and also has serious curb appeal. Great release.

Scent 8.5/10
Performance TBD

Not what I expected when I first tried it.
It's a rich dark scent, not at a fresh tea although it's not completely dark. Tea plays 4th sting behind what I perceive as a rich dark blackberry, suede and musk. This actually feels like something Tom Ford would release and something you'd wear for a night out. It makes me think of colors purple and black for some reason. Very rich, enjoyable, and interesting cologne.
Performance is about average and although it starts off very strong as indicative of a cologne, it levels out very fast and can be worn in moderate temperatures.

Scent 7.9/10
Performance 5/10

I figured out what this reminds me of. This is a cologne version of Noir 29 by Le Labo.

I was gifted a bottle of this from my buddy Johnny. Shout out to you my friend!

I love ELDO - I am never bored with them and this is no exception. My first time wearing this tonight and it gives me the impression of the forest. That Hercules Club tree (which looks like it should be in a Tim Burton movie) and the Geosim give me a vibe of being in the woods as a thunderstorm is rolling in. The incense and pepper contribute to that feeling as well. I'm reminded of Ex Nihilo Citizen X, but this is fresher and more wide open. Less stuffy and business like, and more of a free spirit.
Performance is very good on my dry skin. Lasts a long time.

Scent 7.1/10
Performance 9/10

This is one of the best Bond fragrances for women I've ever tried and I don't even like florals. The poppy, musk, iris, violet, and orange is just a phenomenal combination. Ladies, don't skip over this one, it's really worth a try.

I was excited about the champagne note in this but it's not what I expected. It smells like champagne spilled on the table and you got some on your skin without realizing it. It's dried, sticky champagne that doesn't have the fizz or sparkle that I was looking for.

I blind bought this one for a great price and I'm glad I did. This is my first fb from the brand and I didn't really like the look of the bottle. But now that I see it in person, it's really beautiful. The gold flakes, the starburst pattern on the back, a seahorse on the heavy white metal lid, it's a really captivating and very heavy bottle.

The fragrance is also great. As others said, the opening 30-ish minutes does smell like shave foam. An expensive and aromatic shaving foam. Then it starts warming up into spicy honey, amber, and hyrax. This is NOT that animalic. Vintage Kouros is waaay more pissy and challenging than this. This is a breeze to wear.

It has a vintage throwback feeling. A masculine, mature, and confident gentleman through and through. I think this is an excellent and I absolutely cannot wait to wear this one in the fall
Classy, classic, decent performance, decent quality ingredients, artistic bottle, a winner on every level for me. ⚜️

Scent 8/10
Performance 7/10

Yep, smells like paper. I get the mimosa and the sesame smells vegetal. Diptyque rep also told me it has an unlisted rice note. Drydown is white musk. Simple, but not bad. Very minimal.

Scent 7/10
Performance TBD

I get a lot of saffron, some rose, layered over and unconventional woody amber base. Normal wood and amber conjurers a different theme... So far, this reminds me sort of like a soapy lotion perfume type hybrid. Reminds me of MFK Satin Mood.

Not challenging on my skin. Being that it is rather unconventional, I can see how some may not like or understand. This thing marches to the beat of it's own drum, and up close it's an real curveball. I have received compliments so the impression in the air must be good or I was lied to. There is a slight hard to identify floral component. Does have a slight resemblance to MFK oud satin mood and Byredo's rose. It really doesn't smell 1x1 like anything else I've tried in perfumery.
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Conclusion: Not your typical sandalwood. It's different but pleasant.

Scent 7/10
Performance 7/10

First I'll say HOS #3 is highly synthetic, and smells like an off the shelf scent from one of the big manufacturers like Firmenich, Symrise, or IFF. This one is made with much better natural ingredients. Think about a more complex and better made version CDG Monocule.

This one reminds me of a sitting next to a pond in a tranquil forest, a breeze whisping through the trees overhead, relaxing with my thoughts. There's a touch of smoke as well, perhaps from a previously used fire pit in the distance. Maybe I'm sipping on some congnac or brandy, although I wouldn't say this one is boozy, it's more of a background player. The algae and tree forest notes and accords and pretty well composed.

Leans masculine imo and performance is light. It's also expensive, and for that kind of money there are even more vivid forest experiences to be had. But this one is unique with the algae, booze, and smoky touches. Very easy to wear and enjoy, but I won't spring for a full bottle.

Scent 7.2/10
Performance 5/10

I've tried this before here and there, and I know it's considered a masterpiece by many. However, on my skin I'm getting lots of greenery, something akin to corriander and pickles which bothers me. Bothered me to the point that I wanted to test my theory. I wore it out to a local pizza joint and put two sprays on my forearm. I asked a friend to what they thought about it. They said it smells food. They weren't sure what kind of food, but they said ethnic cuisine. I'm certain the decant is real, it just has a weird reaction with my skin. I love the house of Creed (VIW, MI, OS, Himalaya, Pure White, Royal Water and Mayfair. But SMW, OV, and now BDP are on the black list.
It's not bad or repulsive, but I can't rock this one unfortunately.
Skin chemistry is real.

Thank God it's not another flanker. Looking forward to trying this one over the weekend.

I slept on Renaissance for for years because I paid attention to more flashy things from the house. I liked Nio until I wore it in the blazing heat and found the musk in the base which is perfect in normal weather, becomes screechy and irritating in the high heat. Fiero was great but I let it go to declutter, and it was a little too heavy in the 105°+ temps. I stumbled upon Renaissance in a trade with a friend and decided to give it a shot, and sell it if I found it mundane.

I'm glad I got it, and it's fast becoming my go to scent in the hottest of hot Texas heat 🔥
I always loved the opening, but the base has really grown on me. It's so smooth creamy and relaxing. And the best part is that it's excellent in scorching temps. Draws compliments even when I'm sweating like crazy and mixes perfectly with my chemistry. I'd go as far to say this might be my favorite from the house. I gave a decant to a friend to wear on a date and his date loved it. I have a hell of a lot of warm weather fragrances, and this performs admirably, especially considering it's a citrus fragrance that also smells natural.

Don't sleep on this one, it's beautiful and easy to wear even in tough situations.

Scent 9.7/10
Performance 7/10

I get zero caramel from this. I get plastic, gravel, petrichor and rubber. The drydown smells exactly like a fog machine on my skin. Extremely potent. Very interesting and fun to wear. Can trigger a migraine if I spray too much.

First time testing today in the August summer heat. On my skin this is predominantly orange as the star of the show. Second to that is grapefruit, followed by supporting players of petigrain, red apples, a touch of florals and cannabis. If you're considering purchasing this because it has Kush in the name, you may be disappointed.

The cannabis is there but it's not super prominent on my skin. What's strange about it is I don't really pick up the base notes. I can see a little similarity to Atelier Des Ors Choeur Des Anges in a sense that they are both focused on orange. But Chouer Des Anges reminds me of chewable vitamin C, and Orange Kush is more like orange flavor Starburst.

If you judge niche type fragrances solely by being outside the box, then this is niche. It reminds me of a less potent Histories De Parfums Petroleum but not as hardcore.
But it's missing a key component to make it niche: ingredient quality. It's using some sort of bad synthetic leather mixed with a nitro musk or cheap synth animalic (hyrax, castoreum, or oud) to give it a faux cuir vibe. The saffron and iris are low grade and barely detectable.

After a couple hours the drydown is okay and reads kinda smokey on my skin.
If you want a better bad boy leather for around the same price, Gucci Guilty Absolute is way better than this.

Clean citrus with a little tart twang from the neroli, petigrain and citrus. I'm not sure it's similar to Floris 007 because that one has prominent carnation on my skin. Perfect for the high heat if you appreciate vintage classics fragrances. And yes, fragrances can smell vintage just like clothing can be vintage, music can be classical, and cars can look retro. Styles come and go, but anyone can wear anything they want if they like it. I like this one.

Scent 7/10
Performance 3/10

Wore this today in the 105° heat because I wanted to compare it with my recent purchase of 724.
Very nice wearing experience. It's less musky than 724 and the orange blossom is more pronounced on my skin, so it reads softer to me. I was surprised at performance as as I was getting strong whiffs of this throughout about a 6-7 hour period until I sweated it off my skin (I didn't apply to my clothing). It's a mood lifter and I agree with the AI bullet points with the exception of evening use. Very nice but redundant since I already have 724.

Scent 7.5/10
Performance 7/10

I've wanted to try this for years and finally found a bottle. I've smelled lots of niche marine scents and this is right up there with other heavy hitters like Acqua Di Sale, Atlante, Erolfa and others. Thing is, this doesn't smell like anything I've tried before. The opening is very very salty with minerals just like you're smelling ocean spray. The suntan lotion is there but it's way in the background similar to how it would be when you get out of the water after swimming or surfing 🌊

The privet and laurels really help paint that picture of the Atlantic coast. The skin musk is also tastefully done and very realistic. There's really nothing nasty in this one unless you think seawater in general is unpleasant and if that's the case, you should stay away from true marine scents. Wearable artwork that conjurers the Atlantic in a fantastic and realistic way.💙
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My favorite true marine fragrance. Projection could be better but otherwise it's photorealistic, which makes it perfect for me. I'm going to pick up another bottle before it's gone again.

Scent 10/10
Performance 7/10

Update: DS DURGA is selling this again.

I'm probably not going to say anything that hasn't already been said about this one but I'll give it a whirl. This is a classic gentlemen fragrance that still highly wearable in 2023 IMO. The most prominent notes to me are juniper, pine, coriander, carnation, nutmeg, lavender, geranium, pepper, iris, amber and cedar. Coriander and carnation are notes that can make a fragrance go sideways for me but it's well balanced here.

I've always believed Guerlain to not only be an all time great house with tons of pedigree and heritage, but also a tremendous value. The level of perfumery you're receiving for the price is unbelievable. This modern formula is blended and executed well, with good quality to boot. Does it smell dated? Not at all. Perfectly suited for modern wearing and highly versatile. Performance isn't beast mode but then again it's a reasonably priced EDT without screechy chemicals, so I'm happy to refresh periodically or carry a decant.

A classic that still works well in 30 years after it was released.

Scent 9/10
Performance 3.5/10

Signature scent material right here. I'm a huge fan of cedar and sandalwood and this one is fantastic. The pepper, nutmeg, and lavender blends seamlessly with cedar, vanilla, incense, sandalwood, and musk to make a concoction that gives of the creamy woody vibe of masculine, well mannered, gentleman. This reminds me of the drydown of Histories De Parfums 1828 which is one of my favorite fragrances of all time. However, floris is a little more airy and lighter which should give it a little more versatility (although 1828 is pretty versatile). Can be worn in just about any situation or weather. Full bottle on the way.

Another hit from the storied British House of Floris. 🇬🇧

Scent 9/10
Performance TBD

Second impression: very nice iris dominant (on my skin) fragrance. There's a little fig, cardamom and tea but the iris is key player, and then vetiver and sandalwood. Vetiver is probably why people thinks this leans male but it's sweetened up with the tonka. The vetiver contributes a rooty slightly earthy quality which I like, with a bit of makeup but not too much.

This reminds me of a lower tier version of Bruno Fazilori Feu Secret which uses an extremely expensive and high quality iris butter. The overall smoothness is boosted by a synthetic sandalwood material which is a great choice in the base. Overall, just a well engineered and pleasant experience. I haven't spent enough time with it to test performance but I'd guess it's in the 6 hour neighborhood.
Overall a great release and a strong like.

Scent 7.8/10
Performance TBD

First Impression on skin. I've considered blind buying this a couple times and I'm glad I didn't.Very disappointed in this release from Penhaligon's which is a house I generally like. This feels synthetic and unfinished. You get whisperers of incense, whisperers of animalics and leather, and a boatload ambroxan. I'm not an ambroxan hater, but this blend smells like plastic. This fixative was a very poor choice IMO. It works in Lord George but fails here.
Granted, I haven't spent much time with it, but I doubt my opinion will deviate much for from the last hour or so. Bois d'Encens smells better than this one and without the plastic smell. I'll update my review if my opinion changes, but so far Terrible Teddy is indeed, terrible.

Scent 3.5/10
Performance 7.5/10

Update: eh, my opinion hasn't changed much. I like it slightly better but still not on brand for Penhaligon's.

Tested this over the weekend. Strong and immediate resemblance to Mattiere Premier Crystal Saffron but with less focus on saffron (although still prominent) and the addition of oud and papyrus. Lavender helps smooth the whole thing out a touch of camphor opens the sinuses but isn't bothersome. The oud is the western variety. I love this one, but I already have crystal saffron which I think is a slightly superior to this one. Less similar to Le Labo Oud IMO. Great release, I'm a fan of DSM and DS Durga.

Scent 8.8/10
Performance 7/10

Someone below me described this perfectly.
"A cold whipped wateriness, creating a really icy vibe" That's exactly how I perceive it after top notes die off. It smells watery but also aerated in a way, almost like whipped cream. Performance is stellar due to high concentration like all Nishane scents.

Scent 8/10
Performance 8/10

Hyper realistic smoke scent that is suprisingly hardcore imo. Initially, it smells like a cigarette you just put out, and put up to your nose. If you grew up during the times when smoking indoors was everywhere, this is the smell of bars, pool halls, and bowling alleys of that era. Stale smoke and tar stuck to walls after years of indoor smoking actually made the walls turn yellow, and you could see the yellow tar accumulation running down the walls! Yes kids, this was the 70's and 80's you don't read about in books or see in the movies 🚬

As it goes, I detect some cinnamon which puts it into more palatable territory of something similar to tobacco vanille, but a much more wet ash and dirty version. This would only be suitable on a man in a night out situation as it smells like an old Vegas lounge from yesteryear. If you're a former smoker with fond memories or nostalgic about times of cigarettes being burned indoors en masse, you'll like this one. I don't see the appeal for anyone that isn't a tobacco aficionado or miss the simple and unhealthy times of the of the 70's and 80's. Unwearable to most people I'd imagine. Wearing this in the heat would probably make me puke.Photorealistic and unique art; I need to be in bad boy mood to wear this stuff.

Scent 7.8/10
Performance 7/10

I've been testing this blind over the last few days. I had no idea this was a fragrance enhancer until I read the review below mine. This smells like a standalone fragrance in it's own right. The opening fools my my nose to thinking I'm smelling fresh grass. There's a little vinegar twang in there that reminds me slightly of Creed Chevrefeuille ambergris.

As it goes on, the orange blossom becomes more apparent and I sense the dirtiness of the civet and musk. It's a little animalic musky but not overly so. The end result is vintage esqe white florals with a little dirty twist. Not normally something I gravitate towards so I won't seek a bottle, but it's not bad.

Scent 6/10
Performance 6/10

When I initially tried this a couple years back I wasn't impressed, but this is one that you need a larger decant to appreciate. I'm not really getting the Wood Sage And Seasalt comparisons because that one has way more sage. This one smells much cleaner and although it's kinda designer (not challenging whatsoever) there's something in the mid and base I really enjoy. Maybe it's the moss and blonde woods but this reminds me of vacations on the beach.

This isn't hardcore marine like Tauer Phtaloblue, DS Durga Rockaway Beach or Sarah Baker Atlante, this actually reminds me of renting condos and staying in resorts on the beach. It smells like the seabreeze blowing through the double door into your suite. Completely tranquil. I highly recommend to try this with more than just a tiny sample because for me, I truly appreciate this when use 8-10 sprays and then carry a decant periodically refresh throughout the day. That's also the only way I can get projection.

I even spray this one on my face occasionally (this is generally a bad idea) just to enjoy the smell for longer. It's expensive, but if you spray it heavy, it's tough to beat. I've tried and own TONS of niche aquatics, and this is becoming one of my favorite when I don't want hardcore or complicated marine.💠

Scent 8.8/10
Performance 3/10

They say good things come to those who wait.
This has a reputation in the community but I've never been a YSL guy and I haven't spent much time with the house beyond a handful of random sprays at retail stores. I'd always wanted to try it, and I purposely never tried a clone until I could try the original. I came across a great deal on a genuine vintage bottle so I pulled the trigger blind.

After spending a day with it on skin periodically refreshing into the evening I can say that it's everything the fragrance community said it was. The quintessential barbershop fougere with a lovely but balanced dose of spicy anise over lavender and herbs. The lavender and woods in the base make this so, so smooth and enjoyable. Soft and a fresh close shave in drydown.

Extremely relaxing, reassuring, and comforting like a hug from your father.
The smell of a gentleman from an bygone era

Scent 9.8/10
Performance 7/10

Tried this today and washed it off shortly thereafter. Smells like a wino. You will not pull wool (or peen) with this stuff unless your date is a raging alcoholic. Smells like the really bad wine they sell at liquor stores next to the malt liquor. Leaving Las Vegas vibes.

I FINALLY got a bottle of this gem thanks to my brother selling me his bottle. I've wanted this ever since the first time I smelled it but I'm too cheap to pay full price, or even half price. This is mostly brandy, saffron, bitter orange, woods and musk with a pinch of oud and ginger. I've tried almost everything from Bond because I'm a fragrance nerd, and this is my top 5 from the house.

The boozy musky slightly powdery woods in this one are pure magic ✨ It's very unique and there's nothing else out there smells like this one. Performance is great with excellent longevity and sillage. Definitely not suitable for hot weather; cool/cold weather night out scent. The only reason this doesn't get a perfect 10 is it's friggin SWEET (in the opening) and needs time to calm down.

Scent 9.7/10
Performance 8.8/10

One of my favorite scents of all time. Gets tons of compliments if that's something that is important to you. I've never met someone that doesn't like it on my skin but ymmv. I once had a lady friend tell me this is the sexist thing she's ever smelled, and this woman owns and has tried tons of niche perfumes.

My problem is my skin drinks this stuff. Longevity is soooo bad I've got to carry a decant, and this stuff isn't cheap. Other than that, its perfect. I've even worn it to the office without issue.

I have hundreds of frags and decants, and I have tried thousands.This is still the BEST night out/date night fragrance IMO. But, you're going to need to spray heavy, and you're going to need spray often. If you can afford to do that, it does not get any better than Kilian STH.

Scent 10/10
Performance 1.5/10

I've been testing this since every day since Friday and the more I wear it, the more I like it. Now, this is an artistic scent so I would not recommend this to someone that doesn't enjoy avant garde fragrances. The opening strongly reminds me of Acca Kappa Muscio Bianco EDP but where that smells astringent and sterile, this does not. Lots of lemon, lots of aldeydes, and a bit of ginger up top.

Then you get the "shock value" cocaine note 🌀. I'll admit, I've tried cocaine before and this is pretty realistic. However, it's not reinventing the wheel as Tom Ford Tuscan Leather unintentionally smells like booger sugar. Anyway, then rose oxide, which has has a metallic vibe, and followed by the smell of a ozonic swimming pool. There's also a salty seabreeze. Projection isn't strong, and I've found my sweet spot is around 7-8 sprays.

Really interesting headspace perfume. Overall, a fun scent to wear in a gorgeous bottle.
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Scent 8/10
Performance 4/10