Lecso (Hungarian Pepper Stew)
In Hungary, mild, pale yellow peppers known locally as paprika form the basis of this beloved traditional dish. Diaspora cooks are used to making do with similar varieties such as cubanelle, banana peppers and (mild) Hungarian wax peppers. Bell peppers are an acceptable if imperfect substitute; red peppers should be cut with at least some yellow or green peppers to keep the dish from becoming too sweet. Farmers markets should have options that more closely capture the spirit of lecsĂł; just be sure you know where they sit on the Scoville scale before committing.
Beyond its elemental ingredients â peppers, tomatoes and onions â lecsĂł is a dish with seemingly infinite variations. Meat, particularly smoked sausage or bacon, is a common addition; a dash of smoked paprika, while not traditional, can allude to this in a vegetarian version. Sour cream and dill are lovely garnishes (but may irk lecsĂł purists).
Possible accompaniments and mix-ins are as numerous as variations to the dish itself. Crusty bread, rice, spaetzle (or their Hungarian cousins nokedli) and pearl couscous (as a stand-in for Hungarian tarhonya) are all popular. Some like to add beaten eggs toward the end of cooking.
Refrigerate leftovers for up to 4 days.
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup neutral oil (see VARIATION)
- 1 1/4 pounds yellow onions (2 medium), halved and sliced
- 1 heaping tablespoon sweet paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional, if not using meat)
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes (2 medium), diced large
- 3 pounds cubanelle or bell peppers (12 to 15 cubanelle or 8 to 10 bell), cut into 2- to 3-inch strips
- 1 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
- 12 ounces smoked sausage, such as kielbasa, sliced into rounds or on the bias (optional)
- Sour cream and/or fresh dill, for serving (optional)
Directions
Step 1
In a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat, warm the oil until shimmering. Add the onions, stir to coat in the oil, cover and cook, stirring intermittently, until soft and lightly golden, 8 to 10 minutes.
Step 2
Add the paprika (both kinds, if not using meat) and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until fully incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, stirring to deglaze the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Cook until the tomatoes begin to release their juices, 2 to 3 minutes.
Step 3
Add the peppers and salt, and stir to incorporate. Decrease the heat to medium-low, cover and cook until the peppers have reduced and softened, stirring every 5 minutes, about 20 minutes.
Step 4
Add the kielbasa, if using, and cook until the peppers are soft but retain a bit of bite, about 10 more minutes. Taste, and season with more salt, if desired, then remove from the heat. Ladle into bowls, top with a dollop of sour cream and/or a little dill, if desired, and serve.
Step 5
VARIATION: For added flavor, you can cook the vegetables in rendered bacon fat instead of oil. Cook 4 ounces of chopped bacon until the fat is rendered, 5 to 7 minutes. Then, proceed with the rest of the recipe, using the rendered bacon fat in place of oil.
